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Moro Rock (SEKI)
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Aerial Boundaries T 
Arc of a Biner T 
Bear Damage S 
Between the Thighs T 
Digging in the Dirt T 
Direct East Face 
Flight of Stares T 
Full Metal Jacket 
Holy Grail T 
Ladies on Top T 
Levity's End T 
Lizards Kiss, The T 
Modern Guilt T 
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Pennies On The Patio T,TR 
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South Face T 
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There's always room for Jello S 

Arc of a Biner 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Hickey, Daly, Cook. June, 1991
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: Nathan W. on Sep 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Arc of a Biner 5.9

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A sporty route up a sustain but featured face. Knoby face climbing past bolts to a two bolt anchor. The route starts on a narrow ledge, you'll step out left and make for the small right-facing corner 10 feet up, after this climb upward through balance-e climbing from knob to knob, following the bolts for 150' to the anchor. Continue up 5.6 slab for the next pitch and one low-fifth pitch upward to the stairs as the Finish. Rapping off would result in having to down-climbing the 4/5 class sections below the climb.

Location 

The route starts a few hundred feet downhill from Bear Damage(5.10). There are two ways to approach the climb. You can start down the East Gully, following a vague trail, until you see the route to the right of a right facing corner and can scramble up 4/low 5th Class blockiness, or you can walk up the stairs for a bit until you see the trail over the railing on the left that leads towards the shorter sport routes. Follow this and down climb through some trees walk across a ledge until you see a rap anchor inside of a little ravine at the end of the ledge. this Rap will take you to the base of the climb without climbing the approach blocks.

Protection 

Bring plenty of alpine draws and draws. Bring TCUs for the small corner at the starts. A 60m rope if you plan on topping out and not rapping.


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By Chad Namolik
From: Three Rivers, CA
Apr 8, 2016

A couple cruxes down low, the first crux comes near the ground with a tricky slab move left that is protected with ok cams/nuts. Then there's a weird knob mantel to get up to the 1st bolt. Sustained climbing throughout. Sometimes 10-14 ft. between bolts. Another full value Sequoia climb. You can start on Ticket Ride and move into Arc of a Biner for an easier start. Approach to the start of the climb is 4th/5th class dirty scrambling. Best to do this climb in two pitches and go right to the railing/trail on Moro rock (70m rope). Otherwise, 2 ropes needed to rap from bolts.

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