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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Merrill Bitter, et. al.1984
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: tenesmus on Sep 5, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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James nearing the top of this uber BCC Classic


Face climb on edges through fractures and broken cracks with great feet. Placing gear is a little pumpy. Don't get sucked left - head up and a little right, intersecting the little roof on the right. Seems like you wind up placing gear at your chest/waist a lot.


TCU's or aliens and cam's to #2 camalot. A double set of smaller gear is nice. You don't really need all of them, but the options are nice. You have to nail the gear but its all there and better than you think when you're standing on the ledge getting psyched to commit to starting. A proud, very worthy line.

Photos of Aquaduck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: James on one of the Trilogy
James on one of the Trilogy

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By Nathan Fisher
Apr 23, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Wow! What a lead Tenesmus. Not yet. A solid route with impeccably sharp edges and a nice pump to boot. I'll go back for my lead.
By ldsclimber
From: Santan Valley, AZ
Oct 17, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

A Merrill Bitter Classic!!
One of the best 5.10s in BCC!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 28, 2012

Oh boy, the gear on this one is so funky to get to sit right. The climbing is not difficult, but its feels like 10d as you pump yourself silly trying to fandangle some small tcu into a horizontal. I felt good about most of the gear once it was cursed into place, but this isn't Goodros folks. The bottom section sews up well, but the top 30 feet on the lower angle section is R for sure, but felt about 5.8.
By dnaiscool
Apr 25, 2015

The protection, although pumpy to get shite...

Sorry folks, but the rock quality on this route is sub-standard, and the highly fractured nature of the placements makes each questionable.

When I did this route, the pro was in the best places possible, but I would never trust a fall onto any of the pieces. Sure, you'll get those RP's in there, and you'll set those thin cams, but if you are maxing on .10d, then do not even think of leading this route.

The movement is great, and the holds are generally positive, so have at it...

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