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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Rich Ludwig
Page Views: 2,184
Submitted By: Mike on Aug 29, 2009  with updates from Rich Ludwig

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Sean W. on Aquavulva with a sparkling East Clear C...


Walk a little downstream from the Shady Grove area to where the creek narrows and hugs the right (East) wall. This route starts by a tree, a bit right (up-stream) from Mulva. There is often a small stack of 'cheater-stones' at the base.


Another great scoop route. This one starts just right (up-stream) of Mulva. A thin face move (hence the cheater stones) leads to the first scoop. Work up through this, then 2 more scoops to the chains.

There is a second pitch that was added later, but I don't personally recommend it. It is 5.12-ish and not bolted very well (IMHO), and we both thought it was scary.


Bolts & chains.

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By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

An absolutely fabulous route. Three scoops followed by excellent patina edges makes for a unique, classic route. In my opinion this route is better than Mulva but both are not to be missed.

I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt as the starting moves are tricky and the rock seeps.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 27, 2015

Via Rich Ludwig

"Yeah, the continuation is called "A Cold Slap in the Face". I need to add a bolt right after the traverse at the beginning. I hung a long sling off the first bolt when I did it (the 2nd pitch). Actually, it is/was meant to be climbed as a single pitch. I called it 5.12c when done that way.
There is a bolted anchor at the top of the wall here, so it is possible to TR this thing, just be careful setting it up!"
By Alexander K
From: The road
Apr 13, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The difficulty is probably highly dependent on how high you make your cheater stack, especially for the shorter folk.

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