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Pywiak Dome
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Aqua Knobby T 
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Aqua Knobby 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 375'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Lloyd Price and Joe Fitchens, July 1972
Season: summer,fall
Page Views: 4,959
Submitted By: Adam on Dec 17, 2006

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Matt Grieger stands at the bolt that marks the sta...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First pitch is a nice warm up. The 2nd pitch is why this route is great. It starts steep and technical and stays that way for about 70 feet. There's a bolt about 2/3s up that is your pro for some thin slab moves. They called this R before, but with small cams and nuts, you can pro it just fine. Might be PG-13 to some, but for the area it's not. 3 pitch is a nice crack out.

Location 

North side of the dome. Look for the slab up to a ledge below a black water streak.

Protection 

#2 C4 down to #0 C3.


Photos of Aqua Knobby Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay for Aqua Knobby
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay for Aqua Knobby
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of P4 crack, a nice knobby crack.
BETA PHOTO: Start of P4 crack, a nice knobby crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Knobby. Tim on P2. 7/2012.   Photo: Corey Gargano
Knobby. Tim on P2. 7/2012. Photo: Corey Gargano
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan Hall pulling the roof on Pitch 1
Bryan Hall pulling the roof on Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Irina gets ready to traverse the final slab moves ...
Irina gets ready to traverse the final slab moves ...
Rock Climbing Photo: North side of Pywiak Dome.  Climbers on Aqua Knobb...
North side of Pywiak Dome. Climbers on Aqua Knobb...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arin Trook on the final pitch of Aqua Knobby.
Arin Trook on the final pitch of Aqua Knobby.
Rock Climbing Photo: Arin Trook on the runout 5.9 variation start to Aq...
Arin Trook on the runout 5.9 variation start to Aq...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Aqua Knobby". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Aqua Knobby". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Aqua Knobby Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 23, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

4 pitches of technical climbing.

The 5.8 runout on pitch 2 feels runout not because of the distance between pro, but because a fall will propel you over an overhang and onto the slab below--which will surely hurt. The consequence of a fall is not merely a long slide.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The second pitch is simply superb. However, I do not see how you could pro up anywhere on the face after leaving the bolt and before making the crack at the end.

We chose the 5.9 bolted-to-5.6 R start: the best option to start p1 I think!

I'd say the scare factor is somewhere between PG13 and R on just a section or two.
By Tommy L-D
Aug 9, 2010

Pitches 2&3 link w/ a 60m, and make for an amazing time.

I wouldn't do it any other way.
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 15, 2010

We started with the bolted 5.9 slab start, then linked pitches 2 and 3. Done this way, this is a new favorite TM multi-pitch for me; steep, fun, some good cracks, and just run-out enough to be exciting without being upsetting.

Standing at the bolt that protects the runout, the climbing feels hard and tenuous. But the bolt is protecting the hardest stuff; once you step up and over the overlap it's pretty cruiser to the crack and good gear.
By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I do this route every time I pass through Toulome. Absolutely wonderful, requires good head but is all there if you use your feet. Still PG 13 I think.
By stuart.h
From: Redwood City
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route has a little bit of everything TM has to offer.

FA: Lloyd Price & Joe Fitchens 7/72
By Patrick M.
From: Vancouver
Sep 14, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Stellar 2nd pitch and easy to link 2-3 with a 60m rope. Keep debating whether it's runout or not but this route is definitely R by any normal people standard (which most people commenting on MP thread are obviously not. It's great to be you).
By Tricamus
From: Culver City, CA
Jul 21, 2016

Turns out you can link 1-3 w/ a 70m. This makes for a fun LONG pitch, as I was laying on my belly to build the anchor in the horizontal crack in the back of the ledge. I would agree with others that most will likely find this to be PG, as some falls would not be that clean.