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Glacier Point Apron - Right
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Angel's Approach T 
Apron Jam T 
Apron Jacked T 
Balance Bitch T 
Balance Boy T 
Cold Fusion T,S 
Edge of Token T 
Endless War T 
Garden's Edge T 
Green Dragon T 
Green Dream T 
Lonely Dancer T 
Micro Maze T 
Mr. Natural T 
Point Beyond T 
Point Beyond Direct T 
Slamdance T 

Apron Jam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Galen Rowell and Gordon Webster
Page Views: 3,122
Submitted By: Alexey on Nov 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Following Apron Jam Photo - John Ely

  • Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron MORE INFO >>>
  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Wide 4' crack between leaning flake and main wall with good feet all the way. After about 110 feet - you'll find good set of new bolts.
    If you continue from there to Mr Natural it is better to climb one more short approach pitch.
    If you going to climb from Apron Jam bolts to the top of Mr. Natural you have to have at least 70m rope- it will be 230 ft pitch or even more.

    Location 

    Right facing flake Just below splitter Mr Natural.

    Protection 

    Single from green alien to #4 Camelot. Plus #4 and #5 Friends.



    Photos of Apron Jam Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brian leads Apron Jam.
    Brian leads Apron Jam.

    Comments on Apron Jam Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By john strand
    From: southern colo
    Nov 3, 2009

    A poor climb, serves only to get to Mr. Natural
    By squiddo Siddens
    From: Mountain View, CA
    May 11, 2010

    Great route and highly enjoyable. Large gear takes the pain away.
    By Darshan Ahluwalia
    From: Petaluma, CA
    Oct 17, 2010

    The first comment is extremely inaccurate. The smooth and clean corner provides for an excellent wide laybacking experience and, with the addition of the new bolted belay, is a great pitch to do on its own.
    By Jeff Gicklhorn
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Nov 6, 2010
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Agree with the above comment. Good climb on clean rock. Make sure to bring a BD #4 and #5 if you don't want to run it out.
    By tallmark515
    From: San Francisco
    Nov 8, 2010

    Burly old school 5.9 liebacking. Sorta felt like Open Book at Tahquitz. A worthwhile approach pitch to Mr. Natural, kind of an intense warm-up if it's your first climb of the day.
    By Mareko
    From: San Francisco
    Oct 1, 2012

    If you want to practice offhands to a layback, this is great training. I walked a #5 about 15 feet then placed a couple of 4's before it started thinning out.

    By Evan Riley
    From: San Francisco, CA
    Apr 15, 2013

    Great lie-backing practice. You can reach the tree for a stellar 180' pitch which serves as a great approach to Mr. Natural. Gear is doubles from 0.3 - 4 and a single #5. More gear beta below.

    Don't be afraid to burn the big gear down low, up higher you can sink smaller cams. I walked a 4 and 5 up until the crack narrowed and then ended up carrying those boat anchors to the top.
    By Ed Henicle
    From: Santa Rosa, CA
    May 29, 2014

    I really liked this climbed. We did it as an approach to Mr. Natural, and took two #4's and a #5 - leap frogging them down low. I climbed past the bolted anchors up to the tree for shade and comfort - phew - what a work out!

    Came back and did the route again in Sept - no hang dogging this time - love this route!
    By Matt Glue
    From: Boulder, CO
    1 day ago

    Fun climb! With walking you can easily get by with 2x BD #4s, mostly double rack below that. A #5 is really nice too, if you don't want to run out the start.

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