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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 33'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Submitted By: Pal Pocsi on Jun 20, 2010

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Same start as for Kínai piac but then follows a more difficult path slightly to the right. It gets vertical around the third clip and feels a little “commity” to get over onto the ledge below the anchor.

Reminds me of the feeling of Rumney slab routes. You go up and sort of just trust that handholds will appear. There is a bolt protecting the crux move nicely.

If someone is seconding, there is a chance for a pendulum swing to the left if they've already cleaned the quickdraw. This is because it shares the same anchor as Kínai piac, to the left.


Third route from the left end of Kis Fal.


Bolts to a two bolt anchor.

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