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Apricot Jam 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Fantini 2007
Page Views: 18
Submitted By: sourisse on Jun 13, 2017

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B. Balan getting ready to spread some Apricot Jam ...

Description 

Start on the low-angled rock at the base of Blipvert Wall and follow the orange painted hangers up the obvious crack to a ledge beneath the roof. Muster your roof-pulling power and then try to manage your exploding forearms (perhaps with a sneaky kneebar) as you quest up a finicky face to a heartbreaking finish.

Location 

The leftmost line of bolts on the face to the right of the crack (Max Headroom, trad, 5.10c)

Protection 

14 draws, excluding anchors. Putting 60 cm alpine draws on the two bolts below the roof will help decrease rope drag later.


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