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Approach Pitch 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Season: Fall to late spring
Page Views: 653
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Feb 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The same view with better lighting


The climb starts on obvious chicken heads following a fairly prominent groove. The first 30 feet is 5.5 and then it is a class 4 scramble up to the wide crack. From there you make your way onto a ramp. There are two cruxes on the route, the first is climbing the wide ramp that gets progessivly narrower on grainy rock that has your feet skittering off. Once you have begun lay backing your way up the crack the second crux comes at you fast. The route is not well traveled therefore the rock is fairly loose and lichen is growing in the crack. The crack peters out and you are faced with a 20 foot run out on Joshua Tree slab. The rock quality on most of the route is very grainy, loose, and sandy (especially at the cruxes).


When looking up 200 Hotels and Taken For Granite, The Approach pitch is below and about 50 feet to the right. The start is surrounded by yuccas and bushes but there is a fairly decent spot for the belayer to lay out his or her rope. There are no anchors at the top.


#1 and smaller camalots, there is a spot or two for a #2 Camalot. Use slings if you protect the first 25 feet of the climb as the rope drag can be a problem.

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By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Feb 18, 2008

My recommendation would be to avoid this route, it isn't very fun, the rock quality isn't all that great, it is fairly runout at the top, and in general a waste of time especially when two classic routes are just above it.
On a side note my partner and I had to bail as we were running out of daylight there is a sling with a black wire gate carabiner at the top, that we used to rap off of the route. The black wire gate I carried on my flak jacket in Iraq. That carabiner has stories (it has also been to the top of Bear Creek Spire), go ahead and add another story to its repitroire.
By Jonathan
Mar 30, 2013

Just did this approach pitch and someone left some nylon slings and a quicklink at the ledge (the start of the classics above) for a rap, just in case you have to bail

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