REI Community
Redgarden - Tower One
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Bucketland T 
Apple Strudel T,S 
Art Of Slappiness, The S 
Art's Spar T 
Better Layton Never S 
Blueberry Boodle T 
Body Tremors T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Consummation Nite T 
Daedalus T 
Deadpoint T 
Dirty Deed T 
Doub-Griffith T 
E.L.100 T 
Electric Aunt Jemima T 
Exhibit A T 
Exit Stage Left T 
Flashdance T 
Fresh Garbage T 
Grand Giraffe T 
Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 
Icarus T 
Ignition S 
Italian Arete T 
King Cobra, The T 
Magic Bus T 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Magic Route T 
Mellow Fellow T 
Mellow Yellow T,S 
Memory Lapse T 
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 
Much Slater (left variation) T 
Neptune's Bible T 
Neurosis T 
One and a Half Hours of Power T 
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 
Parting Shot T,S 
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 
Pigeon Crack T 
Psycho Pigeon T 
Psychosis T 
Reaper T 
Rocky Raccoon T 
Roll Over Rover T 
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 
Rover T 
Ruper T 
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 
Short Arm Inspection. T 
Smoke & Mirrors T 
Song of the Dodo T,TR 
South Face of Tower One T 
Super Slab T 
Superspar T 
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 
To RP or not to Be T 
Untouchables, The S 
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 
Vertigo T 
West Arete (of T1), The T 
Without A Net T 
Yellow Fellow T 
Yellow Spur, The T 
Ytrid Deed, The T 

Apple Strudel 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA: Achey/Leavitt/Hare, early '80s
Fixed Hardware: 9 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 4,228
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Apple Strudel, photo: Josh Janes.

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Directly up the center up the face, left of Yellow Spur, are two exciting and thought provoking pitches up immaculate and progressively changing banded rock.

    At the start, protect (or not) a continually-expanding crack with a tricky 5.10 move up the stacked flakes. The crux is getting past the third bolt, and traversing right under the roof...There are some very cool, intricate moves on some small, razor-like hand and foot holds...After the roof traverse the climbing eases past one more bolt, a bashie and then the anchor.

    Pitch two moves left, out the roof, to the lip and requires a an inobvious pull up and over (11). Tiptoe up the awkward, meandering slab past bolts and an occasional nut placement to the easier left facing corner with gear. The big tree atop the ledge has a bunch of slings and rings to rap off of (2 ropes).


    QDs for bolts, micro brass (#4RP at start only) and small-large nuts, 2-bolt anchor atop P1, tree with slings atop P2 (165' rap!).

    Photos of Apple Strudel Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh on Apple Strudel.
    Josh on Apple Strudel.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rob is setting up for the crux moves on Apple Stru...
    Rob is setting up for the crux moves on Apple Stru...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh at the baffling crux moves on Apple Strudel.
    Josh at the baffling crux moves on Apple Strudel.

    Comments on Apple Strudel Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 1, 2002

    It is possible to rap with a 60m rope in 2 raps, but you need to swing over to the triple bolt anchor atop pitch one to get to those anchors for the second rap. Not too bad.
    By Chris Archer
    Mar 15, 2004
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Intricate balancy face climbing with sequential foot work. An Eldorado classic. A fall getting to the first bolt would be dangerous and probably warrants a semi serious rating. FYI, the first bolt was in place when I first did the route in '85 or '86.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Feb 2, 2006
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    Good route, tricky move just before hitting the overhang and going right. Insecure, but not difficult down low. be careful indeed.
    This route would be much easier to beta-flash than to on-sight, I wager, because the crux move is not that hard, just hard to read and anticipate.
    By slevin
    Sep 3, 2007

    According to High Over Boulder, 1970: "Via a very thin flake, reach a bolt 15-20 feet up, and continue nailing upward. etc."
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Jan 5, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    The 2nd pitch is not to be missed! Lots of great face climbing.
    By Garrett Bales
    From: Lake City, CO
    Feb 28, 2014
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Mandatory stick clip or don't fall it will hurt. Third bolt is hard to clip for short peeps. Good route. The bashy is kinda a joke should be replaced, easy ground I guess Eldo people would say.
    By Gregger Man
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Mar 29, 2014

    Hardware update for P2: two more welded-shuts on the P2 face have been upgraded to 1/2" x 3" Stainless Power-bolts with Stainless hangers. One welded-shut remains under the roof on P2. We'll upgrade it sooner or later.
    By Lisa Montgomery
    From: Golden, CO
    Dec 8, 2014

    Thanks, Matt and Greg, for replacing/reusing the bolts on this route. Much appreciated.
    By Moritz B.
    Nov 11, 2015
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    You can protect the start moves with a 0.5 down low and a red DMM alloy offset before the crux.
    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Nov 20, 2016
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    Given a few spots of lichen after the crux and some friable holds sprinkled throughout, this is not an Eldo classic but nevertheless a great route.

    The .10c start is easily PG-13 if not R or possibly even X. Years ago onsight my foot slipped a few moves short of clipping the first bolt, and I took an out-of-control fall catching the rope behind one leg. One of the two brass offsets I placed held. Somehow I missed the big ledge probably due to the rope behind the leg inverting me at the exact "right" moment. I stopped upside down seven feet above the ground unscathed but shaken.

    There is a friable tin-sounding critical hold in the opening .10c section that will break someday - not if but when. In addition, the entire flake you're climbing up is hollow. An additional bolt at the start mid-flake height would be a welcome addition.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About