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Routes in Sun Devil Wall
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Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Icarus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Persephone's Parole T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Suntoucher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Darryl Styles & Joel Shwarcz |
| Page Views: | 2,802 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Darryl Styles on May 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
EASY 5.7 PITCH 1 to mid anchors, huge jugs, great feet all the way to the anchor. This is a must do for new leaders. This is the only 5.7 sport climb in the area and it is really fun and very well protected. Can even try mantling in a few spots.
However, the money pitch is the 2nd pitch 5.9+. Leave the belay (or blast past it) mantle the huge ledge before heading into a small crack section. Great hand jams and ledges for one or two moves, then out onto the right hand face. Ledges and side pulls be your friend, but dont let it spit you off, climb over the bulge on small ledges for hands and feet (crux), then up left to the chained anchor.
Take a 60m rope, descend in two rappels or drag another rope to get to the ground.
However, the money pitch is the 2nd pitch 5.9+. Leave the belay (or blast past it) mantle the huge ledge before heading into a small crack section. Great hand jams and ledges for one or two moves, then out onto the right hand face. Ledges and side pulls be your friend, but dont let it spit you off, climb over the bulge on small ledges for hands and feet (crux), then up left to the chained anchor.
Take a 60m rope, descend in two rappels or drag another rope to get to the ground.
Location
Appendicitis is the right most route on Sun Devil Wall, just around the corner before heading up into start of Winter Wall.
Has a low first bolt to give new leaders a bit of confidence on first few moves.
The normal Winter Wall approach trail forks at a huge flat rock that you walk over, take the left (lower) fork. Will bring you out right at the base of the climb.
Has a low first bolt to give new leaders a bit of confidence on first few moves.
The normal Winter Wall approach trail forks at a huge flat rock that you walk over, take the left (lower) fork. Will bring you out right at the base of the climb.
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