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A Wisdom that is Woe S 
Albinestone S 
Apes and Ballerinas T 
Between the Cheeks S 
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 
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Apes and Ballerinas 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 303
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Stock options. Also known as Apes and Ballerinas. ...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: Climb a fist crack in a corner. The crux is a blocky overhanging section. Belay on a ledge on the right side.

P2: Climb up and right, then follow a left-leaning thin crack through a knobby wall.

Location 

On the right side of the Upper Cheeks, about 20 feet right of Upper Zipper.

Protection 

Wide pieces for P1, mostly thin pieces for P2. P2 has several fixed pieces.


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By Loganator
From: blue van, on the highway to no
Oct 1, 2016

P1 has an anchor on the left side of the route. This confused me, so I kept climbing, linking the two pitches into 1 amazing climb! At the top of the finger crack, traverse right 15' to an anchor with fixed locking carabiniers. Lower to the ground with a 70m rope. Good warmup for the area.
By braddean Lignoski
From: Seattle
Sep 1, 2017

Beware the choss. Belayer should probably stand off to the side a bit.
There's a bit of chossy rock toward the top. I stood on a particularly solid-looking chunk a few years ago and it ripped out. I came back and rapped it and bashed out some of the choss, but it would take more dechossing efforts to really remove the rockfall danger.

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