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Great White Icicle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Pinch of Salt T 
Ape Index T 
Astair S 
Block Party, The T 
Daddy Long Legs T,TR 
Dancing in the Moonlight T 
Done and Dusted T 
Evening Falls T 
Genuflect Falls 
Great White Icicle, The 
Master Scriptorian T 
More Funky Than Monkey T 
Mountain Monkey Swing T 
Pandora's Blocks T 
Plain Kipper T 
River's Edge, The S 
Small Block S 
Snow Slab T 
Tap N Stance T 
Toe Shoes S 
Unknown T 
Viet Cong Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Ape Index 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Bennett and Bill Robins, 1985
Season: Avoid greasy days
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 9, 2009

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The only thing ape-ish about this line is its name and you won't need to be 6'4" with +12 ape index to enjoy a good slabbing time.

Start in a faint broken dihedral and gingerly work up to the first bolt avoiding suspect flakes and patches of dirt. A couple small pieces here and there ease the mind until you can clip the first button head. From there, a couple touchy slab moves and crystal pinches bring you to a faint dike and better holds. Clip the 2nd bolt and start shuffling up and left along increasingly filthy flakes. A last bit of slabby trickery brings you to the chains.

Slightly runout but easy at the start, a bit unnerving at the crux if you haven't backed up the button heads. Creative gear placements protect the top.


Follow the approach to the Great White Icicle Area. Hike East along the buttress toward the Icicle. Traverse the boulder-strewn gully, cross a curtain of trees and you'll find yourself at the base of a smooth looking slab that is home to 3 good slab routes. Ape Index is the westernmost line sporting 2 widely spaced bolts.


2 sad looking 1/4" button heads.
Micronuts and small cams (up to BD .4) are useful on the way up to the first bolt and can be used to back up the fixed hardware.
Traverse left to the anchors of the other bolted slab route (not in the book, left of Old Unknown) and rap or lower.

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By mountainsense
Sep 13, 2009

Burr and I did this the other day; 10+ for sure, a bit squeezed with the line to its right, though. S
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 13, 2009

Thought this was easier than Stuck a flute in my, maybe because a long reach makes it more straightforward. Exciting getting to the 2nd buttonhead, backup those bolts....

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