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Apathy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Mackenzie Moore, Alex Vaught
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 812
Submitted By: Mackenzie Moore on Jul 1, 2014

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Michelle on the first pitch of Apathy

Description 

Techy Blodgett face climbing at its best. While being a fairly safe route, it offers great movement, and very tricky cruxes on excellent rock.

Pitch 1. 5.11b/c (Don't start in the crack directly below the bolt. Climb the flake to the left, it has better pro and is most likely easier.) Climb through flake to bolt past a tricky crux and through the roof. Climb past pockets in crack, (#2 and #3s very useful) to second roof (small tcus). Pull through awkward second roof/bulge, and continue up 5.9 lieback to bolt anchor. 75ft

Pitch 2. 5.12a Sweet pitch! Traverse right and up through a bolt protected slab (cruxy), through roof and figure out the sequence through the dihedral/bulge (crux) to bolt anchors. 100ft 10 bolts

Pitch 3. 5.12a Pull through boulder problem at the 2nd bolt and continue past slung pocket and #2 or 3 camalot sized solution pocket to a bolt. Make a 5.8 traverse (great holds, no pro) to the left until you are underneath a roof, climb flake to good protection (0 and 1 tcus) under the roof. pull the roof and follow delicate slab moves up and left to an interesting belay. 100ft 9 bolts #2 and #3 Camalot.

Pitch 4-5 are optional and follow the regular route to top out. From the pitch 4 belay traverse left (5.8) into the 4th pitch of the regular route. (5.8)

Location 

It starts 50 ft to the left of the regular drip route, and is marked by a single bolt to the right of a left facing dihedral.

Protection 

2 #3 Camalots, singles in, #2,#1,.75,.5, for larger cams. For smaller cams go with 0,1,2,3 tcu sizes. 10 quick draws, and 5 extendable runners.

Bring two sixty meter ropes for the rap off the top of the drip. Also a double rope rap from the 4th pitch anchors will bring you down to the first pitch of the route.


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