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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Alex Garhart and Toni Walters, April 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,449
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Apr 5, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The route

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Begin in a thin open book corner right of the obvious bolt. Work your way up to a couple of small holds and a stance where you can reach left and clip a bolt. Make a delicate leftwards traverse to a good flake and mantle to another flake where you can reach a less than tips splitter on the left that takes 00 and 0 C3's. Make a fun bouldery move out of a pod to gain a small horizontal flake and a good stance below a small right facing corner. Climb tips to perfect fingers up the corner to a fingers/off-fingers splitter that goes to the chains.


First route left of Bromance.


Small tcu's, tips, fingers and off-fingers, 1 QD. Chain anchor.

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By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Apr 12, 2010

I was wondering if you would be into a bolt for this climb because it looked a little consequential to fall at the traverse or bottom area. i think it would attract more traffic that way.
By Alex Garhart
Apr 15, 2010

I was torn about adding a bolt to the lower section. The pro is decent high on the far right but makes the traverse heady because of the swing/deck potential. After the traverse a #00 black diamond is pretty solid in the small splitter. A bolt would make the route safer and I'm sure somebody would send the direct start. Next time I come out I'll bring the drill if somebody doesn't get there first. Thanks for the feedback. -Alex
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Apr 20, 2010

Sounds good Alex.
By Alex Garhart
May 2, 2011

I finally added a bolt to the lower section of the route, so the traverse is safe. One of the flakes exfoliated this spring making the boulder sequence a little easier. After the traverse a #11 offset DMM nut was really nice to have for the small slot above the splitter.
By Devin Fin
Mar 18, 2012

Alex what a line! You have done a killer job on this route an all yer other routes. It climbs much safer now. Thanks for your work. DF
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Nov 4, 2013

Anyone know who put up the new route "try me".12 to the right ? It's hard compression climbing!

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