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Apathy Buttress
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Apathy Buttress T 
Back To The Slammer T 

Apathy Buttress 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dimitri Barton, Ken Ariza, and Tracy Dorton 2/86
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Lou Hibbard on Nov 2, 2011

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The primary reason to climb this route is to serve as an approach to Back To The Slammer. This route is, however, an adventure if that fits your style.
P1 Loose flakes to start, then a crack in a ramp that's filled with dirt (2005). Excavate for pro. Then an ugly chimney with loose chockstones.
P2 A good pitch. A chimney with a crack in the back followed by liebacking up an arch. We belayed here (stopped early) but finished the pitch with a short ugly pitch to a tree. Lots of swinging around on big stacked, loose, blocks.
P3 We only did half this pitch but it was more standard fare.

Location 

Check out the approach to the Apathy Buttress area. This route is right of Water Babies.
Rappel down Back To The Slammer.

Protection 

Standard rack


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