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Apache Canyon Bouldering

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Apache Canyon Bouldering Rock Climbing 

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Location: 35.564, -105.81099 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steven VanSickle on Nov 16, 2007
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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An enormous sandstone overhang, with at least 20 different variations. Some traverses, roof problems and overhangs. Opposite of the main overhang are two awesome V2 slab problems. 250 yards up the trail, and 10 feet of the trail to the right is a mega classic V5 overhanging traverse. There are rarely any other climbers, but often hikers. Its only 20 minutes from Santa Fe, and you can let your dogs run around.

Getting There 

Take I-25 north from Santa Fe. Get off on exit 297 (Valencia). Go left underneath I-25 and get back on south bound, drive for about 1 1/2 miles and park in a large pull-off marked by a giant green road sign saying "Canoncito at Apache Canyon". At the north end of the parking lot, cross a drainage and follow trail for about 1/4 of a mile. Cant miss it.

Climbing Season

For the Santa Fe Area area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Apache Canyon Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Apache Canyon Bouldering:
Hello Panda   V6 7A     Boulder, 1 pitch, 15'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Apache Canyon Bouldering

Featured Route For Apache Canyon Bouldering
Rock Climbing Photo: Sit start low and left. Move up and right.

Hello Panda V6 7A  New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Apache Canyon Bouldering
Overhanging arete, sit start low and left. Move up and right to the edge of the boulder, pull the lip and top it out....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Apache Canyon Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing some traverse passed the main wall.
climbing some traverse passed the main wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: J worming up, just on the left hand side of the cr...
J worming up, just on the left hand side of the cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering in Apache Canyon
Bouldering in Apache Canyon

Comments on Apache Canyon Bouldering Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 29, 2017
By Wa3lt
Apr 12, 2009
I stopped by Apache Canyon when on the way through/past Santa Fe last year, and was distinctly unimpressed. Maybe it was the fact that the stream was pretty high, but there's really not much here to do unless you're into eliminates. I'd drive southwest to the Pond instead, I think.
By Rich Heisler
Jan 10, 2010
From the streambed wall, there are problems (v0 - v11)scattered all about the canyon along the trail and up on the hillsides. About 200 in all, some very high quality, some average and some less than great.

Must do's Energy Club v5, Hello Panda v7, Geisha v9, Mrs Doubtfire v10, Hellory v9, Unga Bunga v5.

This place was developed about 10 years ago so may be dirty again by 2010 and show little signs of traffic anymore.
By Flash Gordon
Jan 31, 2010
The place is still clean and see's some regular traffic. You should go in the late Summer-Fall/Winter if you are wanting to get the maximum out of the main wall. When the stream is low tons of variations. If the stream is running, then hit the boulders uphill or further up canyon. Beautiful place with some really quality problems! The problems up on the hill don't see nearly as much traffic, but there are some quality problems if you look.
By n8ritz
Oct 30, 2011
hey santa fe crankers, would anyone mind posting descriptions on some more of the climbs here? I really enjoy the sandstone bouldering and I'd like to know where some of the other classics in the canyon are.

I know of the main wall and energy club, but all these are new to me:
Hello Panda v7, Geisha v9, Mrs Doubtfire v10, Hellory v9, Unga Bunga v5

By Eric Whitbeck
Oct 30, 2011
Isn't the classic arete just uphill from the streambed. If you are facing the streambed turn around and find the trail uphill. There is an overhanging arete with pockets that I remember as outstanding. I don't know the name, but the grade is around V5. It starts low left and goes up and right to a nice mantle finish.
By Zack Hall
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Nov 4, 2013
There are many problems scattered around the hills above the well known overhanging area. I think there are more descriptions available at There are some high quality problems, however it looks like someone has gone out there with a chisel and manufactured some holds. Not cool!
By Hans Schenk
Nov 14, 2014
I'd like a clarification on the name of the area. On the topo map the canyon where the trail and boulders are located is actually named Grasshopper Canyon with Deer Creek running through it. Apache Canyon is the next major drainage west. Is this area called Apache Canyon Boulders because of the green sign in the parking area?
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 5, 2015
Thats right Hans.
By DesertDan
From: Arvada, Co
May 23, 2015
So I stopped here on a road trip I took to Albuquerque recently. Great place, park right on I-25 w/zero sidetracking in the car, 5 min from the road with no crowds and beautiful setting. True, if they sat next to Kraft Boulders or the Buttermilks, I probably wouldn't even notice them. Ol' Wa3lt must be an uber badass, the only two kinds of holds I eliminated were the ones I couldn't physically reach and the ones that were too far from the ground for my comfort level of the day.

While enjoying the climbing and exploring, I came across a couple manufactured/modified holds on the dirty crumbly north side of the big rock located opposite the stream of the Main Overhang. Hilariously, they appeared to have been made with a blunt object like a ball peen hammer or a rock and were still covered with the powdered remains.

I disapprove of this action and encourage folks to better themselves instead of degrading beautiful environs. Likely you've already named your "route," but in case the effort of naming it is as hard as resisting the urge to respect the rock, I'll chip out a few suggestions for you: Weak, Squandered Opportunity, Poor Judgment, No One Will Ever Climb This at 5.14 Now, Lost Dignity.
By Northwest Corner
From: Bend
May 19, 2016
Beautiful Canyon. There is sandstone, limestone and granite, if you walk far enough up canyon. I saw chipped and drilled pockets on several of the sandstone boulders in the lower canyon though. Climbers that do this should be reported to the authorities.
By Daniel H.
From: Santa Fe
Jan 29, 2017
Visited Apache Canyon yesterday (1/28/17) and the main wall was unclimbabel due to a high stream flow. Explored around and found a problem I think is "The Geisha" (see Jeff Drumm's vid-

The start holds for this problem visible in the video are no longer there (a victim of chipping/breakage??), but the problem still goes from lower start holds (bad slimper for the left and bad right hand pinch), but deserves an upgrade to V10. This problem is worth the hike by itself!

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