Anything but Sun
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Anything but Sun.
The route is not new, as evidenced by old rap slings, but I have not been able to learn its name or even find out if it had any. If you do know its original name, please contact me.
Pitch 1: (5.7, 110 ft) Go up a straight, left-facing corner to a short but wide ledge on the top of a pillar. Continue up for a short distance, then traverse left below a pair of sotol plants. Once past them, head slightly to the right to a small, but hopefully shady, alcove below a chimney filled with boulders.
Pitch 2: (5.7, 140 ft) Climb up the chimney and exit at its top (this is the crux). Head toward a larger alcove below yet another chimney-type structure. Just before actually reaching it and the large, abandoned birds nest it contains, step onto the block to the right of it. Head somewhat to the right in the direction of the nearest tree going up some steep cracks. When you come to the bottom of a smallish but prominent buttress, go up left of it. The steep, left-facing corner will lead you directly toward the head wall. A step-over takes you to the bottom of a short and easy chimney. From the top of that, traverse right about 20 feet on good holds to the large ledge containing the juniper tree.
The route is good, with interesting climbing throughout. There is one loose block, little over a foot long, near the top of the long corner on Pitch 1. It should be trundled. Other than that the rock quality is generally good. Taking the Pitch 2 directly to the tree instead of the detour up the left-facing corner appears easier, but more chossy and broken up. The route has not seen much recent traffic if any.
Aside from the bowl proper, the Sugar Bowl area also contains a large face to the right of it. The start of Right Lip is located just left of the bottom of the rib between these two, on the right end of a slabby area.
Descent: Single, two-rope rappel (with 60m ropes) will take you to the start of the route over a clean rock.
Standard rack. The route protects well, mostly with mid-size to smaller cams.
BETA PHOTO: Briana on Pitch 1. Photo climber pat.