Anyone use crack climbing gloves?
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Planning a trip tp Vedauwoo in a few months and dislike taping up. Has anyone used crack gloves and are they any good? |
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I've used the Ocuns for two or three years now. I'm on my second pair. How long they last depends on several factors - how much you climb, how much you hand jam, and the coarseness of the rock. |
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I like them for certain cracks, or just the occasional crack on a crag, in Vedauwoo however, you want tape, loads and loads of tape, that rock is a different beast, you want tape for days there. |
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Depends on what you want to climb there. Plumb line is desperate with crack gloves and a ladder with tape. Double that for soft parade. It would help on horns mother or satterfields though. |
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I've used Ocun and Hand Jammies. I prefer Ocun. |
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Jake Jones wrote:Yeah. Ethan Pringle. touchstoneclimbing.com/etha… I used a pair of hand jammies and tore them on my third trip up a hand crack in a gym. Been a tape guy ever since. To each his/her own.The original Hand Jammies were almost a quarter of an inch thick. More recently, they came out with some that rivaled the Ocuns in look and feel, yet were substantially cheaper. And the pair I got tore quickly, just like yours. Too bad, because I'll never buy another pair of Hand JammiesJunk. Edit: The Ocuns are way more durable. |
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I wore out a pair of Ocuns. Now using OR Splitters. The Ocuns were great. The Splitters are better. The Splitters are more flexible. I keep a pair in the pouch of my chalkbag: they fold up small. They are even less intrusive when face climbing than the already acceptable Ocuns. Some have said the early version of the Splitter had velcro that peeled too easily, so now they are sewn. Some say the issues persist. I haven't had issues yet. Regardless, they are better than tape. Added bonus: they help keep my hands a bit warmer when it's cold |
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I seem to always draw blood in cracks (old age thin skin? bad technique? both?), so I purchased a pair of the OR Splitter gloves. I did have to take them to the local alterations shop and have them sew the crap out of the velcro attachment. Other than that, I have been very happy with them. In the case of Vedauwoo, though, as someone said earlier, you may want to just use a pile of tape as that rock is pretty darn rough. Also, with tape, you can customize the tape job based on the objective o' the day. Or..take both, try both, and report back. Have fun! |
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Thanks for all the advice. Think I might try a pair but take a couple rolls of tape too. |
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I like my Ocun's |
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I have the Splitters. I think they're a little thicker than tape but pretty decent. One thing I dislike is the thumb loop which is not very effective at causing the glove to wrap around the thumb side of your hand. You'll probably want to supplement the glove closure and coverage with some tape for real rock climbing. I only use mine in the gym and tape at the crag. |
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Jake Jones wrote: I have friends with the Ocuns and they swear by them, but I do have to say that most everyone I know that has them isn't a real crack "aficionado"- meaning that they have them for the occasional pitch but they're not out there seeking different sized splitters at which to throw themselvesI love cracks, seek them out when I'm outdoors, and go out of my way to Planet Granite (local gym with pretty good cracks) to do long sessions of crack training on all sizes... Used to tape up outside and just use the gloves in the gym, but I found the gloves to be more convenient than tape outside -- especially now that I don't always want gloves and can easily take them on and off as-needed. |
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OR splitters are great. Quick, easy, and effective. They are great at the Voo. That said, you'll want some canvas pants more than the gloves. Thick shirt too. |
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Yes, and I have had both the OR Splitter gloves as well as the Ocuns. |
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IMO tape is the way to go at vedauwoo. Crack gloves I guess work pretty well for anything cupped hands/good fists and smaller, but don't do anything for rattly fists and bigger. The lack of coverage on the side of the hand, thumb, and sometimes even the palm are the issue. Steep stacking on sharp crystals, really steep chicken wings (palm coverage).... I suppose you could supplement with tape, but I don't see a good way to do the side of your hand without having to do pretty much a full wrap. |
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IDK. Might try gloves but probably will just use tape. Cheaper anyway... |