anyone try the new BD Gridlock Screwgate?

Has anyone tried out this new biner by BD? I was thinking about getting the DMM Belay Master, but I heard it can be annoying when clipped to your harness since you can't clip the plastic shut without locking the biner. Seems like the BD biner could be easier. Any thoughts?

It's not out yet.

Though by the time it's out the DMM Belay Master 3, which has a plastic clip that folds in on itself to get out the the way, may be out...

Hmmm... Saw they have that and the new "keylock" hotwire on their website, but no word on the new hot-forged positrons and locker?

maybe not in .CA

moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/…

moosejaw has it in stock

doesnt change the fact that i havent tried it :)

Whoa!

I stand corrected.

We've been testing the Gridlock at Climbing/Urban Climber, and will review it in the Gear Guide (April). Meanwhile: It's excellent. A simple, elegant, lightweight solution. Might have a problem if you had a particularly fat belay loop, but so far we haven't found a harness it doesn't fit.

Dougald

I'm not wanting to poop on innovation, especially without trying it, but there are some trade offs with this in my mind. This might be good in certain situations, but I don't think I'll get one for the following reasons:

1. KISS- simplicity is safety. People have belayed millions of rock miles without this and you don't really here of people falling to their deaths from cross-loaded carabiners.

2. Screw down so you don't screw up- Generally, you want the screw gate to orient downwards so it doesn't rattle loose.

3. I can see people forgetting to lock this because it takes two actions-one to seat the belay loop and then one to lock it.

Although this piece adds a layer of protection in terms of crossloading, it removes one in terms of screw gate orientation. Add to that a layer of complexity and I don't think there will be a net safety gain.

just my 1.5 cents

Evan Horvath aka Evan1984 wrote:2. Screw down so you don't screw up- Generally, you want the screw gate to orient downwards so it doesn't rattle loose.

?

Are you saying you want to belay off the smaller end of biners?

I have been really liking the gridlock. I have mostly used it with a gri gri and a mammut smart. In both cases it performs flawlessly. When you get used to setting it up, it is hardly any slower than a standard biner. I have also used it with an ATC guide, but to me, it seems the biggest benefits are for autolocking devices.

The biggest con that I find is it seems like it increases the odds of fumbling a belay device. This hasnt happened to me yet, but it just feels a bit more likely than for a standard biner.

let me ask a simple question

have there been any recent failure of the belay biners in a crossloading situation on a fall ?

something in say the last 10 years or so ....

Although I haven't tried the BD biner yet, I've been using the DMM one for about a year and love it. Took a few sessions for the motions of clipping in with it to become automatic, but now takes me only about second longer than using a regular screwgate, which is hardly going to make a difference in most situations. Only real disadvantage I've seen is that it's a bit awkward to use for rappelling, and I end up having to bring another screwgate for that purpose. As for the plastic gate not shutting without the biner being fully locked, that's only annoying when it's clipped to a gear loop. When actually in use for belaying, it's great for both people to be able to look at the closed plastic and automatically know the biner is locked.

bearbreeder wrote:let me ask a simple question have there been any recent failure of the belay biners in a crossloading situation on a fall ? something in say the last 10 years or so ....

With a Gri Gri, yes.

Edit: well, I can't find a cite to back up my claim other than biners breaking while lead soloing with the GriGri, so take it as you will until someone digs something up.

Matt N wrote: ? Are you saying you want to belay off the smaller end of biners?

With a Gri Gri, yes.

That said, BD seems to be moving towards putting their energy into developing gimmicky unnecessary crap. I'd keep this one on the shelf right next to their last belay device innovation

bearbreeder wrote:let me ask a simple question have there been any recent failure of the belay biners in a crossloading situation on a fall ? something in say the last 10 years or so ....

I recall reading about a rappelling accident due to a figure 8 getting twisted and loading across the gate of a locking biner. Not sure if this biner exactly prevents this, will leave that to those with more experience.

Found this:

theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil…

Ryan Kelly wrote:That said, BD seems to be moving towards putting their energy into developing gimmicky unnecessary crap. I'd keep this one on the shelf right next to their last belay device innovation

Ryan, you just don't see the genius, an extra channel in your tube device and all that extra material can really weigh you down when you are headed to the gym or an off highway sport climbing crag and you save like $3.

I can't see ever putting that BD gridlock thing anywhere near my groin.. no way.

bobbin wrote: I recall reading about a rappelling accident due to a figure 8 getting twisted and loading across the gate of a locking biner. Not sure if this biner exactly prevents this, will leave that to those with more experience. Found this: theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil…

thanks for that ... i never use a fig 8 so never saw that

personally i think that there are lot of other ways youre more likely to die that cross loading the belay biner

i do have a belay master however ... because it forces you to lock the biner ... and im jsut a gear whore

Rick Blair wrote: Ryan, you just don't see the genius, an extra channel in your tube device and all that extra material can really weigh you down when you are headed to the gym or an off highway sport climbing crag and you save like $3. I can't see ever putting that BD gridlock thing anywhere near my groin.. no way.

Ryan, that's not a safe belay device.

THIS is the only way to be safe:

Mark Cushman wrote:Ryan, that's not a safe belay device. THIS is the only way to be safe:

How much for it? ;D

Matt N wrote: ? Are you saying you want to belay off the smaller end of biners?

Yep. Are you asking a rhetorical question to show your skepticism of an assertion that challenges your belaying dogma?

Use the narrow end with a gri or cinch.

Using the narrow end also adds in a a bit of friction when using an atc becuase it seats down harder on the belay device.

Give it a try.