Anyone in Colorado Springs willing to lecture multipitch sport route for $$$ ?

     

Calling Stich. Where are you, Mr. Stich?????

     

Try sending PM's to either of these MP users jmeizis or
phil wortmann as they both are professional guides here is COS.
I have no experience with these gentlemen, but they seem like good, knowledgeable people from their posts.
Good luck

CJC wrote:I'll save you some time and money: when you get to the top after clipping all the bolts on the first pitch, clip the anchors and belay your second up. next, clip all the bolts on the next pitch. repeat. it's not complicated.

It's actually more complicated than that. Since it's sport climbing where falling is most likely to happen and anchors are solid bolts, I would probably agree with Will Gadd and argue for belaying off the anchor like he advocates in his blog.

Here is the video, demonstrating the method. Aside from a creepy voiceover and "Italian" hitch for "clove", the video is eye-opening, especially the demo at the end for the 1.5 factor fall.

This is silly.

To be "safe" just make sure you don't do anything that would leave dead or maimed.

Everything else is subjective. Climb a few multipitch routes and get your system worked out. You'll be slow at first and you'll start settling on things that work better.

CJC - bad day dude? would rather read this post then the accident report about the person who took your advice... no?

Since your experienced with single pitch, a great option would be to practice on a easy single pitch route but treat it as a multipitch. This basically means you would lead up and anchor yourself ontop of the route, and then belay your second up. Use this as practice for belaying from above, coiling the rope, anchoring, swapping lead. If everything is bolted and your experienced there's probably not that much to learn. Its not like your building anchors or placing gear.

doligo wrote: It's actually more complicated than that. Since it's sport climbing where falling is most likely to happen and anchors are solid bolts, I would probably agree with Will Gadd and argue for belaying off the anchor like he advocates in his blog. Here is the video, demonstrating the method. Aside from a creepy voiceover and "Italian" hitch for "clove", the video is eye-opening, especially the demo at the end for the 1.5 factor fall.

That video, and Will Gadd's blog posts (link #1) and (link #2) were very informative. I'm surprised belaying the leader directly off the anchor isn't more popular. I don't do it, but after watching that video...spooky.

Matt S. - Thank you! I've considered simulating multi, and that may be the intro, give significant consideration to the best anchor/belay method and then start practising for different belay station scenarios (hanging, standing).

Everyone else - thank you for your suggestions and links so far!

Ryan Nevius wrote: That video, and Will Gadd's blog posts (link #1) and (link #2) were very informative. I'm surprised belaying the leader directly off the anchor isn't more popular. I don't do it, but after watching that video...spooky.

Oops, I think I meant to say "munter". In any case, I think the direct belay method is more prevalent in Europe, where bolted multi-pitch is more popular.

Locker wrote:I'm a bit confused (I know! Nothing new). What's so different about a single pitch "Sport" route, than a multipitch sport route?

There is still the matter of being efficient. A few topics I'd want a new multipitch sport leader to learn:

• how to rig the belay off the anchor or off the harness
• where and how to stack / manage the rope
• which way to face
• whether to use two quickdraws, a cord, or a quad for the anchor
• where to clip in as the second / follower if you're swinging leads vs leading in blocks
• how to clip an anchor that is also used for rappel such that a rappelling party doesn't arrive at the belay and complain that you clipped the rings intended for rapping
• when, why, and how to attach to the anchors with just the rope
• what to do if you drop your ATC

That's just what I could think of off the top of my head. A trained guide surely would have more on their list.

Even though multi-pitch sport is "simple and easy" it still has a few tricks to learn. If you're a multi-pitch trad leader, you already know these tricks. I think the OP isn't in that boat. I'm glad he asked for help and is willing to pay for it.

Tom-osaurus Rex wrote:Try sending PM's to either of these MP users jmeizis or phil wortmann as they both are professional guides here is COS. I have no experience with these gentlemen, but they seem like good, knowledgeable people from their posts. Good luck

+1. Theyre solid guys.

Hello? Someone call me? Everything OK?

Alright, toddling off now.

Just another reason REAL climbers start life out with trad, easy trad 1 pitch, easy trad multi pitch on big ledges, then some hanging belays, then tougher trad with king swing falls on your OWN gear placements, then maybe some big walls...An all trad multi pitch background makes the world of sport climbing just a casual pasttime. But nobody has the time or patience to do slow, tedious trad climbs anymore once they hit the indoor gyms and their mass marketing to sport only. It's from 5.10 plastic, then on to 5.12 rock and big numbers fame. Such is life today. You can't skip the basics people.

Furthermore - Woodchuck wants all you kids to take your rap music and your gym memberships and get off his damned lawn!!

Daniel H. Bryant wrote:I'm an experienced single pitch sport leader, but would like to advance to multi pitch sport and am looking for a teacher that wouldn't mind consulting me in more of a class room like environment (although I will learn where the teacher feels most beneficial). I would be able to compensate in the range of $15 per hour or perhaps more on a contract bases. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Daniel

Edit--Peter Jackson's comment really said everything I wrote below and then some, but since I bothered to write it . . .
Repeating what others have said (I think) is a slightly different way--
sounds like you want to hire a guide to take you up a few routes and give you pointers as to efficient ways to clip into the anchors, stack the rope, and maybe some other basic things (e.g., there's no reason to freak out if you drop your belay device, provided you know alternative means to belay and rappel).
There is not a lot going on ropework-wise in multipitch sport, but there's at least a little bit going on, and it sounds like you want to do it "right" (there is more than one accepted way to do most climbing things--probably a few good ways, a few could-be-better ways, and some ridiculously dangerous ways. No reason not to do it a good way.)

I guess there are different types of learners, but I think most of us would learn a lot more by doing it than by a classroom lecture.

Austin Baird wrote:Furthermore - Woodchuck wants all you kids to take your rap music and your gym memberships and get off his damned lawn!!

nice, but dont forget to take your copy of Big'uns with ya

pfwein wrote: I guess there are different types of learners, but I think most of us would learn a lot more by doing it than by a classroom lecture.

like drivers ed, you never learn anything until you get behind the wheel and climbing tends to make people a bit more on edge than driving when learning so I may have to go with learning on the spot over "classes" as well

Woodchuck ATC wrote:J..An all trad multi pitch background makes the world of sport climbing just a casual pasttime. .

says the guy who redpoints 5.10.... but it was trad ya know...SOOO much harder to climb that grade placing those cammy things.

SashaD started out sport climbing, flashed 14, then when on to the dolomites to flash hard 13s on shitty pro.

...looks like your 'real climbers start out trad climbing' theory doesn't hold water.

but maybe that only applies to 100 lb girls.

Everyone, thank you for your suggestions......and the humor.

Austin Baird wrote:Furthermore - Woodchuck wants all you kids to take your rap music and your gym memberships and get off his damned lawn!!

Thanks Clint,,,and nobody takes away my Korean war era rifle either....