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Anyone here climb Tower 1 Gully in the Wind River Range?
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Apr 23, 2014
I'm thinking of climbing the Tower 1 Gully on Mount Helen in the Wind River range.

I'm thinking of going in early July, and am wondering what snow/ice conditions are likely to be like that time of year.

If anyone has any ideas, let me know.
Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Jan 6, 2006
105 points
Apr 23, 2014
i have gone back there a few times to check it out and each time it was mostly snow, late july, early august and late august. that said if you just want to "have climbed it" early july would be most likely a snow climb, early september/late august you will find ice but the approach couloir can be a nightmare of ice and loose rock. go with a back-up plan is my best advice and see what you find. good luck awesome line and on my list. also never hurts to hit up the local guides they are back there guiding folks up gannett with regularity and can give a better idea what this year is like. fuzzy in wisco
Joined Dec 29, 2009
25 points
Jun 9, 2014
I just climbed and skied Tower 1 a few days ago. It's steep and narrow but pretty fat so I was able to link turns almost the whole way down. I didn't encounter any ice and probably could have gone up with just my whippet and cramps (my one tool only came out for the last 100 feet). It was actually the best skiing snow of the whole trip. WI3+ is a stretch, right now it is a relatively straightforward snow climb and I expect it will stay that way for at least another month.

The Winds are pretty spectacular. If you're going to Titcomb, I'd bring your rock kit as well. And a sending partner.
Joined Jun 1, 2014
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