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6. The Tower Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction T 
Arrowhead TR 
Back to the Gym TR 
Back to the Wall T 
Crefeld Crank TR 
Dead Tree Dihedral TR 
Ex-traction Slab TR 
In & Out T,TR 
Johnson Route T,TR 
Manticore Dihedral T,TR 
Manticore Face TR 
Manticore Upper Arete T,TR 
No Rest for the Wicked TR 
Ogre Arete T,TR 
Rachel's Crack T,TR 
Red Knob, The T,TR 
Rock Romancer TR 
Rossinator, The TR 
Tower Wall Direct T 
Unrest of the Witches TR 

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Jon Crefeld, Jono Crefeld, 08/10/09
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Norm Rasmussen on Apr 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: routes overview Left side Tower Wall A Risky Bear ...

Route Description 

Climb to the top or just boulder the first 15 feet (V2). Follow the concave scoop upward to a vertical crack to the left edge of a block. Continue right and up slabs to the top.


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By kenr
Jul 13, 2015

Here's a try at a more detailed description:

Start at a crack system about 15 feet left of the Shark's Tooth detached flake, between two slab faces.

Up about five feet to the cracks. Simplest is to follow the left crack upward trending slightly right, then left through a concave scoop up to a ledge.
. . Or a bit harder, follow the right crack -- at first diagonal, then straight up into vertical crack at left edge of small overhang (which is the crux overhang of the Crefeld Crank route) -- then step left to the ledge.

Next up the left side of a fractured block. Then a little (awkward?) overhang move at left side of bush. Finish up through (overhanging) center of darker top rocks.
. (Easier finish is to go around right side of bush, join "Back to the Gym" in finishing over right side of darker top rocks).

? Protection for Trad leading ?
The low cracks are a bit flary, don't take stoppers well. Bring multiple small cams, and try finding exactly the right spot in the crack where there is a hope that they might hold better.
By Jack Servedio
From: Raleigh,NC
May 31, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

For a fun alternate, after you do the boulder at the bottom, instead of going to the right of the bush, go left/straight up and finish on Risky Bear. More direct, though a bit easier line.

There is a lot of placements for smaller nuts at the concave feature at the start if you look for them.

Be aware of where you are running your rope in relation to the bushes in the spring/summer - I learned this the hard way the first time I was wandering up the left side of tower/right side of three bears.

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