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Any Head Is Good Head 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: The Head Crew, 1994
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 22, 2001

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Funny how things work out. We did Any Head Is Good Head the day a Playboy Feature Girl was on the hill. How we ended up over here instead of chasing her around just goes to show how climbing fouls our reason.

Start behind the trees on greyish rock and work your way ever onward via sharp crimps and largely continuous 5.10 climbing. Near the top, angle a bit left to pull over the cap (5.11b) or dodge left 15 feet to bail out earlier for a 5.10 finish.

The climbing is quite good, probably worth two stars at least; however, the anchor is placed well above the break in angle of the cap and can cause significant rope drag. This is not a line to top rope. Bring up the second and then rap.


Any Head is the right of the uphill cluster of three routes on this wall and is the longest of the group.


A dozen draws and a 60 m rope, otherwise, bring two ropes.

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