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Anxious S 
Dopey S 
Duckling T 
Happy S 


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Colin Rickert 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,170
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Photo showing the line for Anxious

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  • Description 

    On the intro slab on the left hand side of the Quarry (non-quarried rock). Delicate slabby face climbing with a sustained technical crux (including a deadpoint) to get to the anchor. Sequence isn't very obvious at first. Keep your eyes peeled for micro crimps and side pulls. Last move is to grab the crooked birch tree since the top is muddy and the route currently has no direct anchor.


    Left hand entrance wall to main quarry. This route is the center set of bolts between "happy" and "grumpy" (see additional photo). NOTE: There is no official anchor as the anchor for "grumpy" was too close. I wound up using the crooked birch tree as the anchor (and last move on the climb).



    Photos of Anxious Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Colin Rickert crimps down on the crux of Anxious, ...
    Colin Rickert crimps down on the crux of Anxious, ...

    Comments on Anxious Add Comment
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    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Oct 23, 2010

    If you like hard face climbs/slabs this is the line for you. Cryptic crux sequence that is highly rewarding when you do it. I am not sure if this technically counts as a "slab" or just a face climb. To me slab means any angle less than vertical (no matter how close) but I am told by others that this is not the case and that it means when your weight is literally on top of your feet and you are more likely to palm than crimp (in which case it's a face climb). Either way, this is a 3 star route for sure...
    By James Simone
    Mar 10, 2013

    I climbed either Anxious or Grumpy in May of 2012 - I still am not sure of which line it was, though it was certainly enjoyable. I will say, however, that I received a neat shock at the top: the anchor's bolts were actually protruding from the rock. After some .... anxiety, and a lot of inspection, I made the questionable decision to lower off of them and later solo'd up Duckling in order to get my gear.

    Just FYI.
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Apr 2, 2013

    Hmmm, not sure which anchor you are referring to but I am guessing the line to the right of Anxious which kind of skirts out onto the arete a bit and finishes just right of it (5.11 into a 5.9)? Or was it the one to the left (5.10)? Anxious technically finishes right under the crooked birch tree which I used as the anchor both to save bolts and because the crag was already crowded with two anchors. I am not sure why the line to the right (is that one Grumpy?) was even bolted as it seems more of a distraction from the direct line straight up the main face (Anxious). I think the photo I provided shows the main line. You should speak with Travis Peckham or Derek Doucet regarding the anchor situation there. Definitely replace it if it's sketchy - sorry to hear of your experience (quite a potential fall from there I would imagine).
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Oct 8, 2015
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    The natural line for this route trends up and right to the anchor on Dopey so don't let the lack of an proper anchor dissuade you from the enjoyable aesthetic technical climbing on this route. It's a sleeper quality climb once you work out the moves.

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