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Anxiety State Crisis Cave
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Anxiety State Crisis 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Francis Haden and Diana Jew (March: 2002(
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: Thailand Climbing on Apr 7, 2011

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Super sick cave lines in the Anxiety State Crisis ...

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

THE route at crazy horse. Head up the giant pillar in the center of the cave, follow the bolts towards the arete before making an airy traverse into a groove. Extremely 3d climbing lends itself to creative rests. Pumpy and steep climbing takes you to the anchor/belay for the second pitch. The second pitch takes a hanging traverse before breaking out into the sun. Double 60 meter ropes will allow a single rappel to a point where you can make an exposed scramble to safety.

Location 

The route heads up the giant pillar in the center of the cave. The approach is short, but complicated.

Start at the upper cave overlook. Make a short rappel from the promontory. Walk away from the main cave, taking care not to fall in the giant shaft. Head up and right through the back of the cave till you reach an arch. Two rappel bolts in the roof of the arch allow for a short rappel (about 40') to the first belay of the climb. Committing from the start.

Protection 

1st pitch: 11 bolts
2nd pitch: 6 bolts


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By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 21, 2012

Favorite sport climb. Ever. Enough said.
By Renaud
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2016

The first pitch is by far the most outrageously steep and exposed pitch I've ever climbed at this grade. There are no hard moves on this if you make good use of all the tufas above, behind and below you :)
The grade mostly reflects the exposure and unusual 3d climbing in an inverted world.

The 2nd pitch is harder than it looks and probably technically harder than the first one, though definitely not as steep.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jan 9, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Do this one! (and bring prussiks or something to ascend if you aren't solid at the grade. most falls will leave you dangling)
By Keith Neas
From: Yosemite, CA
Feb 7, 2017

Fun climb!
Little extra beta for approach: Once entering cave there isn't really a rappel necessary for getting to the main ledge 15 feet below, just easy 4th down and then up to the back left portion of the cave. Once there look right near a pit and there will be a series of ladder rungs going up and right to the rappel ledge for accessing the belay for the first pitch which is down and right. Pretty interesting approach. My partner and I thought the anchor finishing the climb was in a really poor spot, since there is a huge stance about 6 feet above it. A 70m rope makes it down for getting off the climb. Watch out to not knock off any of the precariously placed bamboo trees everywhere.

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