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Three Buffoons
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anus Great T,TR 
Left Cheek TR 
Practice T,TR 
Right Cheek T,TR 

Anus Great 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: P. Ament, Van Freeman, & J. Dahlstrom, 1970
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 1, 2005

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Janka Flaska laybacking the 4 inch crack.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a short, wide (fists & offwidth) crack on the R side of the Three Buffoons formation. It carries an odd name with unclear history. It remains in the shade in the morning. It is for the seekers of the obscure & close or the cogno-lost.

Move up the lower block on the left (looser), arete (no pro, 5.7), or the crack on the right (hands) and gain a ledge. Offwidth or face climb the bulgy start, get into the crack, and you are done, 50 feet. Walk off left.

This is on the lean side of 1 star.

Beware of leaving your rope piled up in poison ivy.

Protection 

3-5 cams in the #3 to 4 Camalot size. Or 6x48 inch slings to TR off the tree.


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