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Antisana Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 18,714'
Location: -0.48478, -78.13609 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 701
Administrators: Tony Yeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: georgiamike on Feb 16, 2016

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Heavily glaciated peak in remote area of Ecuador, Antisana is a strato-volcano and the 4th highest peak in the country. It is located on the eastern margin of the Cordillera Real, at the latitude where the volcanic chain of the Northern Volcanic Zone is known to be highly active. Its glaciers are considered technical and very active. Generally secluded, the mountain is in the middle of a huge national park 50km Southeast of Quito so it's relatively easy to access. Permits are required to enter the park.

Getting There 

Two and a half hour drive east of Quito. Water is scarce in the basecamp areas and the hike in to the toe of the glacier is 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on where you camp. Overnight stays are available at local Haciendas but must be booked in advance (many book early because it's a popular area to view Condor's). Since guides are required they typically handle logistics for you.

Climbing Season

Weather station 23.3 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Antisana

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Antisana:
Standard Route   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+     TR, Ice, 3000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Antisana

Featured Route For Antisana
Rock Climbing Photo: view from basecamp

Standard Route Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+  South America : Ecuador : Antisana
Routefinding is the real challenge on Antisana and early starts (12 AM) are a must because of the high probability of afternoon weather issues. The climb consists of weaving your way up the glacier to the bergschrund and finding a way across. Depending on conditions, the berg can be nearly impassible for all but the expert climber. About 800 feet below the summit the route splits in two directions. To the right is a steep snow climb and to the left a more interesting technical traverse with some...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Antisana Add Comment
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By Chris C.
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 24, 2016

Now that Cotopaxi is not climbable, it seems that a few guide services are selling Cayambe-Antisana combo beginner packages. This is cool if you have some sort of alpine experience and fitness level, but if you are truly a COMPLETE BEGINNER, Antisana is NOT THE CLIMB for you. At least for the complete beginner in our group, his Cayambe experience was not sufficient preparation to safely climb Antisana. Ice climbing wise, we ran into a few 15' ice steps and two traverses of moderate ice, all that must be down climbed as well. If you have used crampons/axe before or have used your hands to climb low angle rock, you'll probably be just fine. However, if you have never done any of that, learning at 18000' is not a good idea. As a comparison to a well known mountain, the normal route of Rainier is significantly easier than the normal route of Antisana.

I was paired in a group with a person in this boat who literally almost killed me and our guide on multiple occasions. I met a lot of people on Cayambe and Antisana who were under the impression that having a guide guarantees 100% safety. That is not the case if you come unprepared!

Totally side pro tip: All of the major western companies use AndeanFace for as their local guides. Booking direct through AndeanFace is wayyyyy cheaper than the western companies and you literally get the exact same trip. The other local guide services that we ran into seemed pretty sketch (I saw one let a client attempt to climb in the freezing rain with only a fleece jacket..?), so I would stay away from the other local companies.

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