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Anticipation 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Gino Bouchard, Yannick Jean
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: Luc-514 on Aug 4, 2014

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Description 

A small crack starts in the middle of the left face and continues to the top of the cliff, widening on the way. Beautiful, technical and sustained. All crack techniques will come in handy.

Une petite fissure part au centre de la face à gauche et reste continue jusqu’en haut de la paroi, s’élargissant progressivement. Très belle voie technique et soutenue, toutes les techniques d’escalade de fissure vous seront utiles.

Protection 

natural pro


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By Luc-514
Administrator
From: Montreal, Quebec
Aug 4, 2014

Lots of small pro at the start (including small stoppers). After the first big rest, keep a Camalot #1 handy to protect above the slightly overhanging crux move. You’ll use every crack technique in this classic.

Beaucoup de petites pros (incluant des mini coinceurs). Après le premier gros repos, garder un Camalot rouge #1 pour la fin du crux en dévers. Vous utiliserez toutes les techniques de fissure dans cette classique.

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