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4 - Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation T 
Application T 
Bin, The T 
Blotto AKA Axis T 
Dirty Little Secret T 
English Breakfast Crack T 
Entrance Exam T 
Goldilocks T 
Gripper T 
Leanie Meanie T 
Midterm T 
New Dimensions T 
Principle, The S 
Sidetrack T 
Supplication T 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Chapman, Jim Donini 1974
Season: All year around
Page Views: 3,241
Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Spencer Leonard

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


The second pitch of this climb is easily the best pitch of this grade at Arch. Apparently there is also a loose pitch 3, but no one ever does it.

Pitch 1: This pitch is really an approach pitch and the climb would be better if you could avoid it. Start on the dirty face with a long right facing corner and another left facing one on either side of you. Climb the face to a tree (5.8) and then traverse left into an obvious fist crack. Belay at the base of the main corner (5.9).

Pitch 2. Climb the thin hands in the corner, and start stemming as the crack narrows down. It helps to have tiny fingers (11a). Move right (10+) and up to hole under a roof with thin hands in the back. It is possible to get a hands free rest by leaning the back of your head on the rock in the hole. Move up on thin flaring hands and a good undercling jug and then right into the final corner. A huge reach gains you a finger lock (11b). The pitch remains sustained.


This is the leftmost right facing corner at the arch. It is about 100 or so yards to the left of midterm. Rappel the route, or do a dirty pitch to the top and descend.


Double up to 3'' + some small nuts. Cam number 4 is useful at the belay.

Photos of Anticipation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The lower corner on Anticipation.
The lower corner on Anticipation.

Comments on Anticipation Add Comment
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By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 15, 2012

Great pitch for sure but to say it is easily the best??
Maybe say in your opinion. I like Leanie Meanie better. Both great pitches though.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 6, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

there already two of us who likes Leanie Meanie better
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Nov 15, 2013

I've done the third pitch! Yup, it's loose and in the mid-5.10 range.
By Marty Garrison
Dec 6, 2014

I love Leanie Meanie as well. Enough to lead it some thirty times or so. But Anticipation has such varied moves, and challenges many different techniques. I only climbed it maybe three or four times but always did the last pitch for the walk off. I honestly don't remember much about it.

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