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Anthrax 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Woody Stark , Bill and Karen Briggs
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

The left facing dihedral around the corner and to the right of Playwright. I sent it to Bartlett last year and rated it 5.8. He climbed it and felt it was a nine. It was put up by myself, of course, and Bill and Karen Briggs. The ancient ones still are at it.


Protection 

Standard rack


Comments on Anthrax Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not the best description that Woody ever put in. I was actually thinking this was not the correct route but cross referencing the JT West guide I believe it is.

The route is an obvious finger crack which is visible when working the routes to the left. Perhaps what Woody meant with "around the corner" is around a large boulder that separates this route from the next route left which is The Playwright.

The start is barely a left facing dihedral but quickly turns into a straight in finger crack. Good pro along the way, with clean rock and gear in the 1/2"-3/4" range. A small section mid-way turns into a bit of a seam but locks and protection galore above and below.

For the anchor, be prepared to belay on top using whatever 1/2"-2" size pieces you have left in a gear friendly horizontal crack set 10+' back. You could extend over the lip for TR but be prepared with an extendo-runner or similar with 10-12' length.

The route itself is nice, the crack is clean and movement fun. What's most amazing is the detaching thin flakes that surround the crack, which for certain would clean up with a little traffic. Hard to believe that all these years this routes hasn't seen enough traffic to clean up the kitty litter but it appears to be true. This route, is as good if not better than others in the area. Give it a try.

Descent.... options include rap station found on top of The Irritators; Scrambling back, down and climbers left to gain access to the rap station above Psycho Groove; or walk off to the far east side of the formation.
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 26, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun climb, but the loose flakes and crumbly rock around it make it harder, since it's hard to trust them well enough to use for stances.

Gear was OK but a bit sparse in places. Last 15 feet of the finger crack all I could get was a marginal C3.

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