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Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete
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Anthem To the Sun 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Horan, 1980s
Season: Closed Feb 1-Aug 1.
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 8, 2006

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Rufus Miller fires up Anthem. Photo: Bob Horan.

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  • Description 

    Some good moves on some dirty rock. The picture in Rossiter's book always puzzled me, of the expression on Skip's face pulling through the crux, but I have it figured out now. I made the same face when I got my eyes full of sand and dirt trying to reach up at the crux. Only after brushing the route (while looking down) was travel possible. The only 'flash' happening for me was a pump while I tried to wipe my eyes!

    Climb up into the cave on questionable rock, being careful not to set on bad holds. Place a 3" cam at the back of the roof and work outwards to a #3.5 or #4 Camalot placement at the lip, behind you. Duck down and out into a good "undercling" jam and pop out of the cave to look up. Place a stopper high at the limits of your reach. A good knee-bar may help, but it is dirty and hard to get right. Go up and left to a big hold, then back right to a set of small "horns" just left of the crack, then battle your way up to more jams and gear. Beware of dirt and bad rock!
    After ~50 feet you arrive at a ledge that Rossiter's books shows a rap from. There is presently no rap there, nor anything I'd consider putting one in on. I continued by going right to a left-facing corner, and then up the corner (?grade?, PG-13 or R) to a chimney, then up the chimney to a massive dolmen I put a rap in on. Rap from the single sling and rap ring- or better yet, back it up (will require ~10' of webbing). A 50m rope should work to get you down, but it will be very close. A 60m makes it easily.


    Near the top of the W side of Ridge 4, a cave is split by a roof and goes up to a thin crack after a jam at the lip. Perhaps 1/4 mile from the base of the wall in the creek bed.


    A #3 and a #4 Camalot to the lip of the roof on long slings, then a descent #6-#8 stopper you will strenuously place 1/2 blind from below and MUST TRUST and then cams from 1.5"-3" to the ledge. More pro gets you to the new rap anchor, 85' up and right.

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