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The Patio
Routes Sorted
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Antebellum T,S,TR 
Bell Bottom S 
Bell Bottom Blues S 
Bottom Feeder T,S 
Carrying Futons S 
Clyde's Big Adventure S 
El Patio 
For Whom the Bell Tolls S 
Poolside S 
Underbelly T,S 
War on Peace, The S 

Antebellum 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 18, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes Above The Patio

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  • Description 

    Above the tree crossing at the "Patio" boulder problem. At the right side of the Patio traverse is a flaring hand-size crack that turns thin below a roof. Climb the crack with good gear( the crux) to roof. Undercling right and up a face (hard) past 3 bolts. Past the face, protect with medium friends and climb to 2-bolt anchor. Classic.

    Protection 

    This is a mixed route that takes hand-size protection and quickdraws for the bolts.


    Photos of Antebellum Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Rapping off of Antebellum (12a) at Bell Buttr...
    Tony Rapping off of Antebellum (12a) at Bell Buttr...

    Comments on Antebellum Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    May 23, 2002

    This seemed like the best, and hardest, of the routes down on the Patio. I would give it 2 stars. This is a fun little crag to climb on, good shade 'til early afternoon. No offense, and a great service putting these routes in, but the grades seemed a bit soft on all these routes.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 12, 2006
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    This one seemed about the right grade, but by merit of its size. I thought it was a pretty awkward size for my hands. Bigger = better, I believe.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Jun 30, 2014
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Another good strenuous route at this crag. You can choose between bigger gear in better rock and more obstruction or smaller gear in less quality rock at the start - and this is a pretty key decision. The book says the crux is at the thin crack roof, but I thought this section was a lot easier than the start. A bit on the dirty side up higher, but not too bad. Well worth doing.

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