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The Black Jack Pot
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Ante Up 
Black Jack Pot Arete 
Black Jack Pot, The 

Ante Up 

Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Season: Any really
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Mike Housiaux on Oct 18, 2015

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Michael Madsen first couple of moves.

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Description 

This problem is V6/9. It is a V6 if you stand using the "credit card" crimp. The V9 starts low on a crimp with your right and the obvious with your left. Pull up and use your left to work the sloper feature. Right hand bumps up on some small crimps. Move up to the credit card crimp and throw your left to the decent scrubbed hold out left. Mantle using small crystals. Great full value problem. One of the best in the area!

Location 

To the left of The Black Jack pot V7.

Protection 

Crash pads 2 min. Would be good


Photos of Ante Up Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael Madsen on Ante-Up
Michael Madsen on Ante-Up

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By Greg Parker
Administrator
From: Cardiff, CA
Oct 19, 2015

I started this problem REALLY low, almost laying down. Ha. I started with two flat edges, made a move up and right to a decent edge (maybe with a left hand move before???). From there, I reached over left to get the slopey sidepull, deadpointed to the credit card crimp, and finished as you described. Maybe a bit silly, but I think it adds to the difficulty.
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Oct 19, 2015

I tried from the lowest that I could see really low. Also the same with blackjackpot I imagine. We started that pretty much laying down throwing up to some crimps.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
From: Cardiff, CA
Oct 19, 2015

Then you were probably fine. When I first read the description, it sounded like it said to start with your left on the side pull. I definitely moved into it... Not important. It's just fun to remember the moves on these great problems. Thanks for posting them.
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Oct 19, 2015

You may have started one move lower with the left possibly I'll have to go see if it goes lower! No Greg than you for establishing these great lines!
By Greg Parker
Administrator
From: Cardiff, CA
Oct 19, 2015

It's coming back to me... Fairly positive from the low position, I made a move up and left to a crimp, then made a hard move with my right to another crimp (kind of like a gaston, maybe??). From there I reached straight left to the slopey sidepull, moved my right foot to the good foothold (like in the picture) and deadpointed to the credit card. I think the holds I'm talking about can be seen by Mike's head in the 2nd photo. So, to start you would just need to shift about a body width to the right. Isn't climbing fun?
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Oct 19, 2015

Sounds right. Just maybe I didn't start correctly. Left should be either lower or matched on start hold. I'm just hitting first sloper and my right I moved to the hold by head in pic.

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