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Nip and Tuck
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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Marc Hart, Tim Hudgel, Bob D'Antonio, 1986.
Page Views: 3,354
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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  • Description 

    Follow the bolts up the face of the slab midway between Nip and Tuck. Start with the obvious layback, move up to the crimp, and continue. The horizontal slashes around the second bolt are interesting.


    4 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.

    Photos of Antagonism Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Thomas on Antagonism.
    Steve Thomas on Antagonism.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Thomas working the lower section of Antagoni...
    Steve Thomas working the lower section of Antagoni...

    Comments on Antagonism Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 23, 2013
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    Agreed...very tricky feet...the crimpy stuff looks good, and it is easy to forget your feet. a hard on-sight.
    By Ben Mottinger
    Founding Father
    Jan 1, 2001

    The bottom of the route has a maximum of about 10d/11a but the crux is pulling over the little roof at the last bolt. Tricky footwork and crimpy holds.
    By Kristo torgersen
    Sep 6, 2001

    It's 12a if you're tall, just paste your feet high and reach!
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Sep 25, 2001

    This is a great route. The crux is very well defined and you know to save the juice for this part. It is indeed height dependant, as some people may be able to reach and pull down on the upper crimp a lot easier, but there is always the tricky feet. Just paste them high and pull down as suggested.
    By Jeremy Monahan
    From: Fort Fun, CO
    May 20, 2002

    Definitely a good route. Some holds look chipped, might be me though. The roof is the best part. Altogether, a kickass climb.
    By Nate Christiansen
    Jun 27, 2003

    I must have climbed this route on a different day that all of you guys, because I thought that this route was THE most glossed over route in the country. I had to chalk up 30 times on the lower part and the crux was not was not doable. I could not smear. I was extremely disappointed in this route. 5.13a on glossy days.
    By jonah
    Jun 30, 2003

    C'mon, man. It's not THAT bad. I climbed it the same day as you (with all the fog, etc.?). It was hard to stick on the upper crimp and the feet because of the low friction. Big deal.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 30, 2003
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    OK, I'll stick my thumb in this pie...I couldn't even DOG the sequence of this one on TR. I tried 1/2 dozen times and just couldn't do it. Seeing as how in the same month I onsighted other 12s, I guess that made me think it was hard. One climb I had a much easier climb on was one that other's are saying the reverse of. I guess it depends on what you are good at. For me, this was terribly hard (read: impossible for ME).
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Jun 30, 2003

    Like warm apple pie?
    By Adam Hicks`
    Oct 23, 2003

    Tony, I've read other comments of yours that state you have pretty long arms. While I found similar to you that this climb was more or less impossible to me, it was actually because no matter how hard I tried I just couldn't reach the crimp beyond the roof. I climb all of the route alright until the roof, where I past my feet as Kristo said and reach hard, falling short by almost a foot. I don't know if you had the same difficulties as me, given your long arms, but I, too, think this climb has to be extremely relative in grade unlike many others.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 26, 2004

    So ok, "paste your feet high" where? I could reach the sidepull crimp (up and left of the last bolt) with my left, and something not-so-great with my right, but I was so extended, on marginal feet, that I couldn't haul up. now, it was a hot day and stuff, and I suck and all, but I couldn't even figure out a plausible sequence.
    By Eric Jacobsen
    Jul 26, 2004

    Heh...I remember trying to haul my ass up this climb several years stuff but never could do it. I think with enough weight on the rope from my belayer I finally got over the crux. I loved the lower face though...tiny crimps!
    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Nov 8, 2004

    So this is what a 5.12 feels like, huh??? Ouch. I like the above comment of paste your feet high... There really isn't a defined feature upon which one must place such a paste.

    Shameless Beta. Beware!!! Left foot goes on the tiny vertical crimp (you can see it plainly from the roof-rest pedestal), then get your lieback on, reach for the crappy positive crimp, then smear the right foot wherever you can. Power up to the small "ear-looking" feature with your hands (I had to be a little dynamic with this) and put your right foot on a thank-God tiny but long-ish ledge that is colored with lichen. I didn't really use the sidepull much to get over the roof. I just used it for stability AFTER getting over.

    Do what you will. I don't think I'll ever be leading trad .12s if this is par for the course. Freakin' hard. Props to those who can OS this crap... (Up to the crux IS REALLY fun though)~Wm
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Aug 27, 2006

    This one is superhard. I ended up going right to the finger crack and then lowering and doing the crux on TR. I do have some beta. Fortunately, I can reach up to the crappy right crimper and then bump my left hand to the sidepull before the right smears off. It's hard to see from below, but there is a hole by the sidepull that you can put your left thumb in. This is key: now you can squeeze with the left hand which is significantly better than using the sidepull alone. Then, I get the left foot on lame almost-vertical edge under the roof and get the right foot up on an infitesimal nubbin. Then the left foot goes up to a smear over the roof. I have to use the left knee for balance just to get the left foot there. Now, you have two crappy feet, a crappy right hand, and a just somewhat-poor squeeze with the left hand. Now, go for the top of the ear (not big) with the right, get the right foot up to a small ledge below the bolt, and you are done.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Jun 13, 2008
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Fun route. The lower horizontal crimps seemed rather polished, but the ledges are so long you can find your own sweet spot to go off of. This felt really hard the first time I went up, took awhile to figure out a sequence through the roof
    By Richard Lee
    From: Superior, CO
    Jul 2, 2008

    I could not stick the "paste high and reach" beta at the crux, but here is an alternative sequence that worked for me. I did a left heel-hook/smear on the side of the wall under the roof, reached up/fell into the left hand pinch-thing, and then reached out to the not-so-good right hand. With the left heel in place, my body was less extended so I could work my feet over the lip. Fun moves.
    By Jason Shatek
    May 30, 2009

    Tried this one on top rope. At the bottom you're like wow I'm climbing a 12, then reality sets in at the roof and its welcome to I-still-suck-ville.
    By Evan S
    From: Erie, CO
    Oct 18, 2009

    Most of the route is 11- or a, then getting up to the roof turns to harder 11, then over the roof turns to 12. If you can't crimp on quarter pad two finger holds, you're not gonna mantle, I didn't.
    By chris schulte
    Jun 2, 2010

    A friend and I went to climb here one evening, sans guidebook. We started on this one, thought it looked good...and it was, save the ankle breaker brick below the slick crux!
    By Martin Harris
    May 12, 2011

    My new project. Too bad I can't close to pull the crux. Maybe this fall.
    By climberboy228 Romano
    Sep 18, 2011
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    My first 12a/b redpoint! This climb is super cool but also really hard. I am 6'0" tall with zero ape-index; people with much shorter bodies/reaches would have to do the crux's my beta: once completing the tricky mantle you find yourself standing on the ledge with a big, left hand sidepull. From the ledge, I can barely reach the totally horrible, right hand slimper...smear the left foot and bump the left hand to the unique sidepull...but make sure you use the thumb catch, so it's more like a pinch...then comes the hard part...the left foot smear made me fall repeatedly, so instead I basically do a pullup off the slimper and pinch combo to the high right foot...which is also terrible...then get the left foot over the roof and make a desperate right hand bump to the sharp flake-like hold...find a better right foot and then go to a series of good hands to the anchors...totally awesome!
    By Cam Sheldon
    From: Lone Pine, CA
    Jul 20, 2013

    My buddy pulled me up this one on TR. I am not strong enough to lead it, but I could tell the thumb catch was essential. That crux is insane.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Oct 23, 2013
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    11a to a tricky boulder problem.

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