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Crystal Lake Wall
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Swayze Express T 

Ant Jemima 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: This guy and Gabriel L, or someone 1,500 years ago or those ants. Probably the ants.
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Jul 12, 2015

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Gabriel on Ant Jemima, above the first crux or wha...

Description 

Fun moves on excellent rock. Route starts up one of two low angle cracks. We went up the right one at 5.6 or whatever. Small ledge, then crack continues and widens with bad feet left. This is the first crux. I jam my body into the crack and hump my way up to a handjam at the end of the wide section inside the crack, then out onto the left face. Up and up. Second crux is dealing with loose rocks on a short vertical section before reaching the big tree. Rapp off this tree.

Location 

This route is a few minutes walk and scramble south/left of the Swayze Express, and right/north of the big roof.

Protection 

Single rack of cams from .4-3.
First piece (for me) was a chockstone in the wide crack. Bring a double length sling for this. Might want to clip another sling to that as well. Might be loose by then so whatevsssss.


Photos of Ant Jemima Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Ant Jemima after the first time up.
Looking up Ant Jemima after the first time up.

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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 25, 2015

FA: Dirk McDiggler & Drug Shop Dave.

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