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Tsaina River Gorge Wall
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Ant Eater T 
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Ant Eater 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Nick Weicht on May 1, 2014

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Ant Eater is located left of the tall pine tree.

Description 

Start this route by rappelling in off of two bolts located just below the knife edge section of the approach trail. Be careful of a small bee hive that was hanging from some alders that the base in the summer of 2013. Pull the rope and lead up past a bit of moss and onto great rock. Climb past three bolts and a fixed pin. Then plug some gear into a small crack till the rock fades back to face climbing. Past three more bolts and continue on to the anchor.

Protection 

Bolts, a Fixed Pin and trad gear to 1.5" Two bolt anchor.


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By weber907
Jun 4, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Climbed this route yesterday. The route has been retro bolted since the FA. Some of the new bolts almost bring you off route. The original route followed the weakness above the 3rd bolt. Follow this weakness until it disappears, then climb the face to the anchor. Currently no trad gear is needed. 1st bolt is a ways off the deck.

With no need to stop and place gear the grade felt 5.10a with maybe one crux move of 5.10b. Fun route got it's name from a big black ant that almost contributed to a lead fall on the FA!

FA: M.Weber /J. Weber

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