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Ant Crack, Left T,TR 
Ant Crack, Right T 
Gorilla Chimney T 
Ko-Ko Box T 

Ant Crack, Right 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Pavel Burov on Oct 16, 2013

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Description 

Face climb around the right crack. Good lead, easy topropable by pulling through the only 5.6 (a bit awkward) move in a chimney on a North side of the rock.

Rappel to the North from rappel rings left to TR South side anchor.

Location 

Right to Ant Crack, Left.

Protection 

Smaller is better. Brass (small) nuts and a couple of fingers to thin hands size cams.


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By Pavel Burov
From: Russia
May 14, 2015

This route was my the very first trad lead back in 2011.

The last Sunday on May 10th, 2015 I reclimbed it while having a fun nostalgia party at Phantom Spires. I was really screwed up and a bit frightened - the only protection for the most of the climb was a set of brass offset nuts. And I know for sure I had no single brass nut in 2011. Had no idea how it was possible to protect the climb 4 years ago. Spent some time to unscrew things up. Three largest DMM Offset Brass Nuts are of the same size as three the smallest Wild Country Superlight Rocks and I had a set of WC Superlight Rocks back that days. Thus my protection beta from 2011 is set of WC Superlight Rocks + some fingers to thin hands cams, from 2015 - three or four largest DMM Offset Brass Nuts + a set of nuts and/or tricams.

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