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Ant Crack, Left T,TR 
Ant Crack, Right T 
Gorilla Chimney T 
Ko-Ko Box T 

Ant Crack, Right 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Pavel Burov on Oct 16, 2013

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Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Face climb around the right crack. Good lead, easy topropable by pulling through the only 5.6 (a bit awkward) move in a chimney on a North side of the rock.

Rappel to the North from rappel rings left to TR South side anchor.


Right to Ant Crack, Left.


Smaller is better. Brass (small) nuts and a couple of fingers to thin hands size cams.

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By Pavel Burov
From: Russia
May 14, 2015

This route was my the very first trad lead back in 2011.

The last Sunday on May 10th, 2015 I reclimbed it while having a fun nostalgia party at Phantom Spires. I was really screwed up and a bit frightened - the only protection for the most of the climb was a set of brass offset nuts. And I know for sure I had no single brass nut in 2011. Had no idea how it was possible to protect the climb 4 years ago. Spent some time to unscrew things up. Three largest DMM Offset Brass Nuts are of the same size as three the smallest Wild Country Superlight Rocks and I had a set of WC Superlight Rocks back that days. Thus my protection beta from 2011 is set of WC Superlight Rocks + some fingers to thin hands cams, from 2015 - three or four largest DMM Offset Brass Nuts + a set of nuts and/or tricams.

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