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Another Notch in My Lipstick Case T 
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Another Notch in My Lipstick Case 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Morrismc on Feb 6, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Partway up the route, beautiful December day!

Description 

guidebook: "Climb hand crack in a rich facing corner moving left onto a ledge. Next follow a thin crack past a bulge. After the bulge, crack widens and eases as your ascend."

A VERY fun beginner trad route. I found the beginning better if done as a set of stemming moves. And then moving into the crack.

There is a little bit of loose rock on the route so use caution.

Location 

Just above the trampled bush at the base of the tiled pillars

Protection 

I found placements for doubles in bd 1s, 2s and down through the sizes. So a full rack with doubles (only carrying 2's or smaller should do you fine). I brought nuts didn't end up finding placements for them.

Also due to the cliff at the base of the climb, never a bad idea to throw some pro and protect your belayer.


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By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just a warning, route-finding is a little tricky on this part of the wall as the columns lean, and I'm often unsure whether I should keep following a seam or bail left as the leaning gets more severe.

I bailed left on this after perhaps 20 feet, and what followed definitely didn't feel like 5.7, although it was protectable. Maybe I was being a wuss, but I might have also been off-route. Take a good look at the topos before going up over here!
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route does cut left about half way up. I would not recommend this to beginning leaders.But if they place plenty of gear, should be ok.
By Lan Dogan
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 6, 2015

Anchors are tucked back and shared with chapstick. Recommend longer slings to help minimize rope drag if TR.

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