REI Community
Upper 5.8 Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Friend T 
Hang Up the Phone T 

Another Friend 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 966
Submitted By: wasatch-mtn-man on Aug 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
View from the top.

Description 

The route follows a system of cracks to the climber's left of the arete. Belay for 2nd pitch towards upper-middle of ascent.

Second pitch is short, with lower section covered in lichen.

NOTE: This two-pitch variation is different than what is listed elsewhere with regards to the belay stations. We used a 60 m rope to essentially span the two pitches listed in the popular Ogden guide book and then went all the way to the top. (see pictures below)

Location 

Descent is via walk-off down gully to south, then ledge traverse to the starting point.

One can get a nice view of this climb from the top of Utah Crack on Utah Wall which is one gully to the east.

Protection 

Standard trad rack with some bigger cams.


Photos of Another Friend Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Out on the Arete
Out on the Arete
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the upper portion of the Upper 5.8 Wall lo...
BETA PHOTO: View of the upper portion of the Upper 5.8 Wall lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper 5.8 Wall (lower section) viewed from atop Ut...
BETA PHOTO: Upper 5.8 Wall (lower section) viewed from atop Ut...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the bottom of the climb (above and south...
BETA PHOTO: View from the bottom of the climb (above and south...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Terminator #6 Camalot at the top.
The Terminator #6 Camalot at the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff approaching the belay station.
Jeff approaching the belay station.

Comments on Another Friend Add Comment
Show which comments
By flyk
Sep 28, 2009

Fun climb, needs some traffic on it to clean it up. A single #4 would make the wide crack on the first pitch comfy but the climbing isn't too hard.
By wasatch-mtn-man
Oct 8, 2009

Today we scrambled over to Utah Wall and rappelled off. More fun than scrambling down. Very scenic, fun route! Can use some big cams if you want. I used a Camalot #6 just for fun. Didn't use any smaller nuts.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Oct 13, 2009

This was my first trad climb. I followed both pitches. Matt carried all the gear. This is the life!
By wasatch-mtn-man
Sep 3, 2010

Am I the only one that likes this climb? Sure it has some lichen on it but for a moderate trad route in Ogden it's pretty darn fun. Probably time to replace the slings on top.
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jul 24, 2013

Very lichen covered. But that just means no one climbs it! I enjoyed it. Definitely get your adventure climbing face on before you climb this.
By Taylor Gemperline
Apr 13, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Here is a video of this route. I have no connection to those in the video or know anything about them, but I recognized the route and put it here for anyone interested.

By Jake Nelson
Jun 27, 2017

Watch for a few torso sized loose blocks just after the first belay from the guide book (half way up the first pitch according to the topo here), avoid them at all cost as they'll likely kill your belayer, anyone climbing on lower 5.8 wall, and/or passersby on Ogden Canyon road.

Also, if you're willing to drag an extra #4 up with you there is a fun off width splitter (5.7 40') on the walk off protectable with the same rack.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About