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BETA PHOTO: Anorexia
Starts actually a little right of the headwall in the alcove. Climb the slab to access the headwall above the roof. Aid through the thin seam above the roof. It will go clean apparently, so please don't nail up the crack and scar it further than it already is. Just be ready for some hard aiding.
To free climb, climb the first part of Wild Child and after clipping the two rivets, climb up onto the face and step right to clip the first bolt of Anorexia. Climb right to some anchors and then up clip one more bolt before moving on up to the unprotected slab face, making your way to a shelf on top for the belay.
A little bit of everything save the pins.
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jul 10, 2007
I heard Tony Mayse was trying to free this and added some bolts with the first ascentionists blessing. Anyone know about that?
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 17, 2007
I heard the short bus kids from rifle were coming to OKC to try this route, if that is true, don't worry, it won't go. Seriously, I also heard that Tony was trying this thing. I think it has had a few attempts throughout the years, but no luck yet. Maybe this fall. Andrew, why don't you try it, you've got little fingies!