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Anonymous Flake Right 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
Season: All year
Page Views: 6,923
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Owen finishing out on the namesakes flake.

Description 

Slab climbing to a lone bolt. Clip it and make the crux move of getting to the large flake. Follow the flake up and right placing finger to hand sized gear. Make an anchor on the tree at the summit. Not as hard as it looks from the ground, this is a great route. Bring a 60 meter rope, you'll use most of it.

Location 

Follow the base trail until you reach the tallest face on the wall. The large flake above will be very obvious to spot.

GPS- 38,56,27 -78,18,9,

Protection 

Bring .5-2 Camalots and some larger nuts. One bolt on the climb. Bring your own webbing to lower from the trees at the top.


Photos of Anonymous Flake Right Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great climb.
BETA PHOTO: Great climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wife following the route.
Wife following the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike 0 leading Anonymous Flake Right
Mike 0 leading Anonymous Flake Right

Comments on Anonymous Flake Right Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Hensley
From: Fairfax, VA
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I found the pro to be a little bit tricky in places. Furthermore, the large exfoliation flake on the right is completely hollow. Time bomb. Once you hit the bolt, the pro issues end. The namesake flake is very solid.
By Travis Senor
From: Mailing Address in NC
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fantastic climb. Doesn't seem quite like a 5.8, maybe 5.7+ at the crux between the bolt and the flake, but the crux is relatively short. Hold and feet are all good, just need a little balance!

And definitely watch the large hollow rock to the right most of the distance below the bolt.
By Colin Dandridge
From: Golden
Feb 8, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with both of them.
By Spencer Perry
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Gear is sparse before the bolt, but the climbing is pretty mild. Definitely the best trad route at Buzzard Rocks if you are comfortable running out on the slab.
By Sean Tracy
Jul 20, 2017

There are four routes here. The A Flake climbs the left side past two underclings, to the right facing flake, and then follows the flake up and right to a ledge and gear anchor. The left var. follows the same start but instead of breaking right continues straight up onto the flake, past a bolt, and without moving left to the edge of the flake straight up to the bolt anchor. The direct var. climbs up the slab, past the bolt to the flake, continuing onto the flake and a bolt, and without moving right to the edge of the flake straight up to the bolt anchor. The final route is right of the flake and follows easier slab climbing, past the bolt, and straight up to the same finish as the standard A Flake.

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