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(g) Morning Glory Wall
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Anonymous, April 27, 2006
Page Views: 3,066
Submitted By: smithygreg on Oct 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (84)
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Me leading it... Photo Credit

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route is to the immediate right of Lions Jaw. Traverse in from the left to the first bolt and then climb the bolted face. Use the dull arête with your right hand but stay to the left. If you are on bad rock, then get back left.


Left end of the Morning Glory Wall...It's the bolted face just to the right of Lion's Jaw...Before the bulge that is Tammy Bakers Face


6 Bolts to the anchors

Photos of Anonymity Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Connor post crux as he receives some nice pockets ...
Connor post crux as he receives some nice pockets ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading it 2! Photo Credit
Me leading it 2! Photo Credit

Comments on Anonymity Add Comment
Show which comments
By donggua
From: Corvallis, Oregon
Jun 19, 2013

just watch the loose rocks on the right side of the arete, some people on the ground might get hurt if you grab too hard and break one. staying left and dont touch that is a smart choice
By Jon Sykes
From: Sherman Oaks, Ca
Aug 22, 2013

The bolt anchor on the left is now so loose it can be twisted without resistance in either direction. I feel like if I would have pulled on the bolt itself it would just pop out.
By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson
Jan 9, 2014

If you like garbage rock and pockets full of bird poo this is the 5.9 to do.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Mar 29, 2014

I tightened the left anchor bolt today, but it'll continue to work loose until someone hangs chains on the hangers: when you thread the hangers and rap, it torques the hanger counterclockwise. I'm visiting from Rumney, so I didn't bring the gear to fix it right. If you want to climb this route and there aren't chains on it, bring a wrench or a medium stopper to back up with in the crack.

All that said, it was a nice route if you stay off the rotten stuff to the right.
By George W
Oct 20, 2016

It's a fun route--I don't recall anything loose or any bird shit.
By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Oct 23, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is pretty fun if you stay on the face - clean, solid rock. As others mentioned in years past, the left anchor bolt is still loose - I hand tightened it as much as I could. There are chains on this route now, probably just needs an actual wrench to tighten it enough that it won't come loose for a while.

Both anchor bolts seemed plenty good though - I rapped off them without a second thought. This one is definitely worth doing, especially if the alternative is waiting in line.
By Erick Santos
From: San Jose, CA
Aug 25, 2017

With other classics on this wall, I think this route is overlooked. Did not notice any loose rocks (as I stayed on the left of the arete) or bird shiz. Staying to the left of the arete in my opinion keeps it at 5.9 rating using the arete, a good left food and a right foot smear. Had friends lead it before me staying right of the arete and made I look funky and harder than a 5.9. Good versatile set of moves used to get to the tops.

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