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Annie's Arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eric Gabel, Annie Ballard
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Ed Henicle on Sep 30, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The face moves leading to Arete

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great arete route that starts with face moves. Traverse up and left for the first bolt. Make a mantle move, then up and right to gain arete. Use gear between first and second bolt. Route finishes on sustained arete moves.

You can top rope this route after leading the 5.6 crack plus a few moves up and left

Location 

About 150 ft right of Super Hands

Protection 

Mixed route


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By Eric Gabel
Oct 7, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I put that up a three or four years ago with Annie Ballard. I found an old quarter inch bolt (very old), about midway on the arête, but no others. After that there was a crux move way out from the bolt, up higher we found no anchors, or any way off. I originally led it without adding any bolts, but it was very X rated. There was no sign of anybody being higher than the one bolt, so we added two and replaced the one bolt, also put an anchor in to get off. There were many places to traverse in to place that original bolt, including the 5.10b on the left face, so it wasn't clear where they started. We actually started way low, off the 5.6 corner on the right, and traversed left after about 15 feet , to start the route. So that's the story of that one. Could have been a first or second ascent???

I think I called it Annie's Arête, but I recall she didn't like that name. But can't remember what it was changed to. So that's the name for now. I'll check my notes sometime.

- Eric Gabel
By Jake Dickerson
Administrator
From: Lander, WY
Sep 30, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This climb has an awesome combo of face and crack climbing. 5 bolts and gear from .5-#1 camalots. I think we placed doubles in .75. Get on this!

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