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Amber Waves of Pain T 
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Annie Oh! T 
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Keep on Struttin' T 
Last Will Be First, The T 
Limelight T 
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Man's Quest for Flight T 
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Traverse of the Clods T 
Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 
Wop Stop T 

Annie Oh! 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, Rod Swartz, Maury Jaffe, 1980
Page Views: 9,587
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (173)
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Breanna following the amazing p2 of Annie Oh!


Another classic route on a great section of the cliff.

The first pitch of Annie Oh! is a bit runout; the second pitch is mega-classic, steep, exciting face.

People often skip the first pitch of Annie Oh!, climbing the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to the GT Ledge, and then climbing the second pitch of Annie Oh! from there. Done this way, the route becomes a four-star classic.

The Annie Oh! access trail is just past some white rocks on the left side of the carriage road, at an open area with a good view of the valley. This is about a 13-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 9-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

At the cliff, spot a huge left-facing corner on the right; this is Easy Verschneidung (Easy V). Annie Oh! starts about 60' left of Easy V and 20' left of Limelight. This is about 15' right of a large block leaning against the wall (Three Doves).

P1: Climb 40' up a runout slab (5.4 R) to a left-facing corner capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang, continue up past the right side of a scary block, and angle back left past dirty ledges to the obvious ledge. Belay at any of several big trees. 5.8, 100'.

P1 (variations): Climb the first pitch of Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow to get to the same ledge. (Recommended).

P2: Start by scrambling up some left-facing flakes. The wall steepens here and the climbing gets harder. Climb up the face, following the path of least resistance, traversing right under a shallow overhang, where the scary loose block discussed below used to be (it fell in Nov. 2012). Continue up the bright white face above, with several thin 5.8 moves. At the final roof, either exit right onto Limelight, or move left to a groove near the top of the wall. Make an awkward exit move up the groove to a bolt anchor at the top. 5.8+, 100'.

Descent: Rap from the bolt anchor back to the GT Ledge (one 60m rope, but watch the ends). Downclimb to the big tree with rap slings. Rap 100' to the ground with a 60m rope.


Standard rack with emphasis on small pro. Small cams useful for the first pitch. Small cams and nuts useful for the second pitch.

Photos of Annie Oh! Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Annie Oh 1st pitch.  The first gear is nearly half...
BETA PHOTO: Annie Oh 1st pitch. The first gear is nearly half...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tanya passes scary detached block on pitch 2 of An...
BETA PHOTO: Tanya passes scary detached block on pitch 2 of An...
Rock Climbing Photo: Annie Oh!
Annie Oh!
Rock Climbing Photo: gblauer getting closer to the scary flakes (not sh...
gblauer getting closer to the scary flakes (not sh...

Comments on Annie Oh! Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 14, 2015
By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

i climbed the first pitch of arrow to get up here.. much nicer first pitch imo.. definitely be careful of that loose block, tempting to pull on it, but there plenty of holds before/past it!
By T Roper
Nov 19, 2008

first pitch is way exciting, I used all my small cams
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

First pitch can also be wet. After rain the day before, p1 of Annie Oh! was wet. I got halfway up, then traversed over to p1 of Limelight and finished there. I also suggest doing Three Doves, Limelight, or Arrow as an alternate to p1 of Annie Oh! Second pitch was wonderful though.
By slim
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

found the second pitch fairly serious. a spooky loose block, hairy flake, no pro, not a very steep clean fall, and crux climbing seemed R rated in my book.
By Ross Fadely
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The first pitch is quality, dont miss it!

The second pitch is really well protected, the only dicey thing is the block... hate using that thing. Staying low its easily avoided.
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 7, 2009

That picture of Tanya yarding on the block with flat feet scares the daylights out of me. I've done the route a bunch of times and really like it, but I have never so much as touched that block. Perhaps it is 5.9- there without the block, but well worth a little extra difficulty to avoid stressing a feature as detached as that.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 3, 2010

Great climb!

There is a beat up Alien in the hollow-sounding flake about half-way up. 6 feet below that flake is a pretty loose block.
By doligo
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

BETA to avoid loose block: Having never been on this climb before, touching the loose block on lead scared daylights out me, so I downclimbed to the nearest good footing and traversed a foot or two to the right (almost lichen-covered holds get you above the block in a couple of 5.6ish moves). One of the easier 8s in the Gunks, Limelight is a far more serious lead, IMO.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 7, 2011

I couldn't disagree more with you Dolgio. I've lead most all 2 and three star 5.8's in the gunks and this is by no means anywhere near an easy 5.8. Arrow, snookies, morning after, wonderland absurdland drunkards. The list goes on and on. There are actually only a couple 5.8's that i would say are tougher than this climb. This is a serious climb with some runout. If you aren't solid in 5.8 stick to arrow and Easy o and the plethora of easier, less sustained 5.8s.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

That block on pitch 2 is going to sever a rope and take out a belayer one day, hope I'm a long way from the Trapps when it happens. There's another "bongo" flake that few mention - it's got the green alien (circa 2005) stuck in it. We all put a .5 camalot or so in the horizontal above. No imminent, but give that a while and it will be in the talus.

All that said, climb with caution and enjoy yet another truly awesome Gunks. 5.8
By slim
Jan 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

yeah, i remember the flake with the green alien as being kind of more scary than the block because it was harder to avoid.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wow. What a great line. Consistent moves and that last section before the small roof does seem a bit runout...just go climbing and climb to more gear!
By Steve Moulding
From: New York
May 31, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Traumatic memories of this one. While being a solid 5.8 leader at the gunks, P2 completely freaked me out. I found it super steep, run out, and I very nearly went for a very long whipper when both feet popped. I slapped them back on to god-knows-what and they held. I finished, but was not happy.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this route for the first time this past weekend. The "scary loose block" had me pretty spooked on lead. After a lot of poking around I discovered a clutch finger pocket right of the block that makes pulling on the thing completely avoidable. Someone should probably take a crowbar up there and pry it off before it kills someone...
By Gvigliotti Vigliotti
Nov 10, 2012


I didn't realize it until a couple minutes ago but I knew something felt off when I climbed Annie oh yesterday. The block is GONE. I don't think it changes the climb much, other than making it less "thrilling."
By CatChen
From: Germantown, MD
May 6, 2013

We skipped P1 so I can only comment on P2. I thought the pitch was decently protected (no more than 10 ft between gear) and easier than P2 of 3 doves. Maybe it seems easier without the scary loose block? Don't be scared off by the comments. Fun pitch. Go climb it.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Jun 18, 2013

This was my very first 5.8 lead at the gunks. And I'm glad it was! I did the first pitch of Limelight to get to the GT. The second pitch of Annie O is really good. Gear is p.g but what you get is solid for the most part. Several thin committing moves keep it very interesting! There is a loose block near the top right before the last few moves. Put this one on your list.
By rogerbenton
Aug 20, 2013

That "other" scary loose block near the top is REALLY REALLY loose and it is quite large. I went around it to the left but that thing is very likely going to hurt someone. The block in question is oriented horizontally, around 12-14" tall and 5' or so long. Watch out for it, go around it, don't touch it.

Amazing climbing otherwise. Lots of fun.
By Gunkiemike
May 18, 2014

P1 is always a test of where my lead head is at. The 40-50 ft at the start with no pro is only just the first mental test. Small gear, a couple wires, tiny get to climb quite a long ways (15' or so) above a blue Alien. The holds are all there and are nicely positive. But you def. want a cool head on this pitch.
By Luc-514
From: Montreal, Quebec
Sep 22, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

That large flake is pretty spooky on P2, there's a stuck alien under it.
I don't know what imbecile places a cam in the back of a 4'x3' hollow sounding flake...
There's a small offset nut placement right above on the right side of the flake.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Nov 14, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did P1 for the first time last month. Gunkiemike has it right...keep a cool head. It's R for sure but the moves are solid and the R isn't through the crux. Good pro at the crux and a good stance before to work it out.
By Emmett Lyman
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 12, 2015

I've always climbed P1 of Three Doves to access P2, but finally gave P1 a whirl this weekend due to the holiday crowds. Holy moly, that is serious and runout R for sure. I'm not sure if I missed a placement or two (all too shallow to my mind), but the runout after the loose flake/block was quite serious and I'd say more like 20-25'. Broken ankles would have been a good outcome. Still, the climbing itself was fantastic, and the movements thoughtful. Absolutely great pitch, but terribly spooky. I probably won't do it again.
By losbill
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Emmett - I agree. Once was enough for me.
By Gunkiemike
Dec 14, 2015

I re-climbed P1 yesterday, and I THINK a block just to the right of the line has broken off; the orange scar is easy to see. And it is in a spot where I recall getting a small nut. I may be wrong, but if I'm right, it's even more runout than before.

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