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Glenbrook Gorge
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Annelid Crack T 

Annelid Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: aussi Wayward on Jan 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Annelid Crack as you walk east along the creek.

Description 

Ascend the right facing corner to a large ledge. All the pro is there. Note the numerous trees on the ledge. Also note all the lose rock on the ledge. Ascend the ledge carefully towards the large crack and belay at the tree closest to the large crack.

The money pitch and worth the effort. Ascend the right facing corner crack. Avoid the anchor station on the right wall (not safe as of the time of this posting). Continue up and left to a large ledge. There is a large tree there to abseil from.

The route has only one 5.7 move on it. The rest is 5.4-5.6. But there is a good run-out section and the route requires some trad-alpine acumen.

Location 

This is the most well defined, easily visible route in Glenbrook. It is on the south side of the creek. Walking east along the creek, you will see a large right facing corner. This is Annelid. Walk towards it. As you get closer to the crack, the route itself will become less visible. You will come to somewhat of an open area in the bush. Adjacent will be a ledge about a meter or so high that is easy to gain. Walk climbers right on this ledge for a couple meters. Squeeze between the trees and rock. You will come into a right facing corner. The left side of this corner will have hanger-less bolts (aka, 'carrots') peppered about. You have arrived.

Protection 

R. This route takes pro 0.3 to 6. Small pro is required on the first pitch; large pro on the 2nd pitch. The 2nd pitch is run-out.

Abseil: Strongly recommend climbing this route with double 60's. The reason is the abseil from the top of the 2nd pitch. Using doubles gets you through the rocky ledge atop the first pitch to the nice tree at the edge without needing to walk on the choss.


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