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The Dihedrals
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L to R R to L Alpha
Ankles Away S 
Atrophy S 
Dihedral T 
Foster Child S 
Kids With Guns S 
Long Slab aka Milk Duds S 
Narcissism S 
Pillsbury S 
Twist and Shout S 

Ankles Away 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, Paul Sloan - 1991
Page Views: 6,992
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (169)
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Getting thru the crimpy crux section of Ankles Awa...


This is a fun and challenging sport climb; the crux is between the third and fourth bolts. Don't miss Ankles Away when you're at Fosters!

An interesting bit of trivia on the name of the route: According to Arno Ilgner, Ankles Away got its name from an incident on Dihedral, a trad line just to the left. When the leader leaned back on his gear, the piece pulled and the rest zippered; the resulting fall broke both his ankles.


Dihedrals section, 5' left of Twist and Shout.


Six bolts, ring anchors.

Photos of Ankles Away Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the move between the first and second secon...
Making the move between the first and second secon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ankles Away (5.9+) on the face to the left, Twist ...
BETA PHOTO: Ankles Away (5.9+) on the face to the left, Twist ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Making a highstep on Ankles Away.
Making a highstep on Ankles Away.

Comments on Ankles Away Add Comment
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By Kenan Herbert
Jan 27, 2013

I've heard the names were thought up when a climber tried to solo one of them and fell. It explains Narcissism, Ankels Away, and Twist and Shout pretty well I think.
By Brandon.Phillips
From: Alabama
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think the Chatt Steel guidebook gives this a 5.8. This climb is definitely easier than 5.9+. People tend say this is harder than it is because of it being a slab. There are even nice little edges to stand on, all the way up. Fun route. Climbed this for the first time this weekend and don't remember any sketchy bolts or runnouts.
By Rohan R Rao
From: Jacksonville, Florida
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Yes. Chatt Steel gives it a 5.8 and it is definitely more than that, mostly at 5.9. Also, I think Chatt Steel (and also the MP description) gives it 6 bolts to anchors, where as it is 7 bolts to 2 anchors.. so if you are referring Chatt Steel, do carry that extra draw!
By Matthew Hickerson
Nov 4, 2015

I'm in agreement that this route probably goes at 5.8+ or 5.9. It is certainly easier than Twist and Shout. Ankle's Away is a classy slab climb, the movement and aesthetics are great and its definitely a route worth consideration on any visit to Foster's.
This route, as couple other routes in the dihedrals, generally stays dry during wet weather.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 22, 2015

Felt similar to all of the routes on this wall.
By Margaret Murphy
Jan 16, 2017

Super fun slab with some great crimps and no-hands rests. Gets really run out for the fall safety though
By Punter Brewster
From: Chattanooga, TN
Mar 20, 2017

Bullet-proof southern sandstone with beautifully sculpted holds and aesthetic movement. Absolute classic in my opinion. Well protected, but maybe consider stick clipping the first bolt if if you're not solid at the grade. For the regular slab climber this will feel easier than the suggested grade.

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