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Anjaneri East Face Chimney T 
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Anjaneri East Face Chimney 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Rohan Rao, Kaivalya Varma
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter season: November through February
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: Rohan R Rao on Jun 8, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Anjaneri East Face Chimney

Description 

Route: 250 feet chimney, 2 pitch climb on the East face of the Northern flank of Anjaneri massif. Being on an East face, the chimney is in almost always in the shade any time after noon.

First pitch goes at 160 feet 5.7
Second pitch a 100 feet at 5.8/5.9

Pitch one: Approximately 160 feet (with a 70m rope one can comfortably add up another 25 feet to find a good ledge). There are plenty of possibilities along the way to build a good anchor station. I nearly ran out the length of the 60m rope to find a good ledge.

The first pitch is mostly a 5.5 climb with a couple of 5.7 moves thrown in the mix. The rock quality is better than the Sahyadri average, except for a few, which can be easily avoided.

The start at the base of the chimney can be wet and hence I started the first 10-15 feet on the face to the right and then traversed left into the chimney. If you decide to do the face, please note that the face moves cannot be protected and it is a no fall zone or else you are sure to hit the ledge. The face moves go at around 5.8

Once into the chimney, the climb is pretty straight forward over a couple of ledges for approximately 130 feet.

Belay station: The first belay ledge takes anything from a BD #2 onwards up to #5.

Pitch two:
Pitch 2 is the money pitch of this climb. The second pitch starts as a wide chimney that narrows into an off-width above. The outer end of this chimney is too wide for straddling & bridging, unless you are a super-flexible gymnast!

It's difficult to protect the chimney here. I climbed the arete of the outer wall making up the chimney (some loose rocks attributable to constant wind erosion on the outer edge of this chimney) for about 20 feet. At around 20 feet I found a small horizontal crack that gobbled up a BD #.75 cam to my relief. Up till this point on the second pitch, the moves are unprotected, so a fall means certain decking. Once the chimney narrowed to my comfort levels, I moved into the chimney and bridged my way up for another 25 feet. Again, these moves are unprotected as the chimney is too wide to take anything.

At around 25 feet above the previous protection, I managed to place a Big Bro #4 – it was a bomber placement and a confidence booster.

The chimney narrows and tapers rapidly above this point – too narrow to even wriggle through. A seconding climber with a backpack cannot surely fit in.

The rock on the face / edge is very loose. It's better to stick to the chimney. Near the end of chimney, there is a firm chockstone that blocks the way. Protect the chockstone with a 120 cm long sling, pull on the crimps on the face and clear the chockstone overhead. This move – exiting the chimney and pulling over the chockstone bulging overhead – I think is a 5.9 move and the crux of the route. The exposure is magnificent while doing this maneuver. Once over the top of the chockstone, a short 3rd class scramble of around 15 feet takes you to the summit. A solitary tree serves as a good anchor.

Descent:
Walk off towards the North end of the Anjaneri massif and descend over a flight of stairs to the base in around 45 minutes.

Location 

From the forest department outpost near the base of Anjaneri massif where a flight of stairs lead up the fort, walk further South for 10 minutes. You can see two cracks on the wall overlooking the Anjaneri village. The first chimney looks broken and chossy and of an easy gradient / easy scramble. Further to its South on the same cliff line the second chimney is the one described here.

Protection 

Singles of BD #.75, #4 and #5
Double up on BD #1, #2 and #3
Single pieces of #4 and #5 Big bros comes in handy for the wide unprotected chimney moves.


Photos of Anjaneri East Face Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting pitch one - On the 5.8 face moves to bypa...
Starting pitch one - On the 5.8 face moves to bypa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kaivalya seconding - Wriggling on pitch one throug...
Kaivalya seconding - Wriggling on pitch one throug...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of chimney close up
Another view of chimney close up
Rock Climbing Photo: This is how the chimney looks early in the morning...
BETA PHOTO: This is how the chimney looks early in the morning...

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