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Animation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. Retrobolted by Rick Leitner and Chris Alber, 1997
Page Views: 24,959
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Apr 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (627)
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BETA PHOTO: 02-28-2004.

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  • Description 

    This description & its comments are combined. Since this was the earlier contribution, Jon Cannon's was merged into this one.

    This is a great warm-up or a good lead for 5.8 climbers (it's "Turbo Bitchin'," according to a friend of mine). Jugs are plentiful on this vertical face. The route is on the Lower Animal World cliff and ascends an obvious line of bolts in the middle of a tall vertical face. The route lies just right of 'Joint Venture.'

    This route is located on the wall facing west in the West Buttress area. Good holds are plentiful for the first 60 feet or so of this route, and then start to thin out somewhat. Balance and footwork are paramount for the final series of moves, where the wall bulges out slightly. It is a very fun route, with thoughtfully-placed bolts.

    Eds. Per Richard Rossiter: this should not have the name Jaycene's Dance listed as an AKA.

    Protection 

    10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 60m rope is required to get down.


    Photos of Animation Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up Animation. Solid moves on flawless gran...
    Leading up Animation. Solid moves on flawless gran...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling off Animation.
    Rappelling off Animation.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of Animation.
    The crux of Animation.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Animation as viewed from Joint Venture.
    Climber on Animation as viewed from Joint Venture.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Block with the X in the lower left corner.
    BETA PHOTO: Block with the X in the lower left corner.
    Rock Climbing Photo: As a note of caution, there is a death block (+/- ...
    BETA PHOTO: As a note of caution, there is a death block (+/- ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lee at the roof.
    Lee at the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Animation.
    Animation.
    Rock Climbing Photo: John leading Animation for the day's warm up. Patr...
    John leading Animation for the day's warm up. Patr...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stephen Sandstrom climbing Animation.
    Stephen Sandstrom climbing Animation.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplating the crux. When I first went for the ...
    BETA PHOTO: Contemplating the crux. When I first went for the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Erica trying it out on toprope!
    BETA PHOTO: Erica trying it out on toprope!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve enjoying the changes in the rock.
    Steve enjoying the changes in the rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Scott at the anchors (just above the crux).
    Scott at the anchors (just above the crux).
    Rock Climbing Photo: Great climb.
    Great climb.

    Comments on Animation Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 17, 2017
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Oct 4, 2001

    A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great.
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Jul 1, 2002

    Before it was bolted, this route was led with gear and named "Animation 5.9". After receiving bolts and letter grade drop in difficulty, it was listed in Rolofson's guide as "Jaycene's Dance 5.8"....
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 13, 2002

    This climb has now been retro-bolted. Between the 4th and 5th bolts is a ledge. At 5 feet 4 inches tall, this was the crux for me, getting that 5th clip. I could not reach it from the ledge and had to make a move to get higher. A fall back to the 4th bolt would have been a good one. If you fall while pulling up rope for the clip.... Diminutive folks may wish a nut or two to place for this move. Just a suggestion.

    BTW, adding bolts to a climb does not generally give you the right to rename it....
    By Brian T. Wandzilak
    Sep 3, 2002

    Despite the route names or bolting issues, the bottom line is that this is a great route for any intermediate leader. Whenever you need a good hand or foothold, there seems to be one there for you. Very little exposure on the way up to sketch you out. At the top there is a decent view up and down the canyon. Simply an all around good climb and one many should put on their "tick" list.
    By Matt Chan
    From: Boulder
    Jun 26, 2003

    Great route to bring a friend just getting into the sport. The positively positive blocks make it a blast and such a nice view from the top.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Mar 1, 2004

    A single 5.8 move just before the anchors, and the rest of the route a grade or two lower. Nice and continuous, though.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 19, 2004

    Random comments: the bolted route right of this is now listed here under "Unfamiliar Strangers, 5.9+", I believe. We climbed both of these and enjoyed them.

    The first "action photo" on this page is not Jaycene's Dance. I don't have enough knowledge of this crag to know what route is actually picured, but it's definitely not this route.

    We got lost on the way to Animal World and climbed an obscure bolted route which is on a crag about 100 yards due west of Animal World, with the base 50 vertical feet higher. It is a fun route, probably only 5.8 with about 7 bolts on it. It is just right of a gully, but I have no idea what crag it is on. There are some more bolts right of this line.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Sep 19, 2004

    George: Did you end up at Mine Hole Crag, and climb Sofa Kingdon?
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 19, 2004

    Bingo, Jake, that's it. Thanks for clearing this up.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 20, 2004

    The "first action photo" would be Hands of Destiny. It is located just right (2000 feet) of Jaycene's Dance.
    By Ryan Malaty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    May 2, 2007

    Good climb on a nice day, don't catch it on a bad day though! haha.
    By Talia
    From: SLC, UT
    Aug 14, 2007

    Only had time to climb for a day in a half in Colorado and really enjoyed this climb. A nice change from the slab climbing. A bit more vert and gotta love the changes in the type of climbing.
    By Jamie gatchalian
    From: denver, co
    Nov 1, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Awesome! Probably the best of its grade that I have been on in a long time. Would recommend that everyone try it.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Nov 7, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.

    I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.

    A trick that I learned from setting gym routes was to never set holds above elbow height, with the arm raised above my head. That pretty much assured that a shorter person had an equal chance of reaching it from the same stance. Maybe some of these route developers should consider the same practice when placing bolts.

    That bolt should be a foot lower, and then the route would be better, IMO.
    By J. Fox
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Jun 2, 2008

    I really liked this one as well. My first 5.8 lead ever. Positive holds everywhere. The only cruxen for me were between bolts 2 & 3 and then just below the last bolt but there was/is a nice undercling there. It was wet when I climbed it on 5/28/08. I'm either getting better, or its not really a 5.8 but maybe a 5.7-.
    By khoa
    From: Tacomarado
    Jun 20, 2008

    There's a very loose flake about the size of a plate towards the top of the route (after the big ledge a bit). I couldn't pull it out, but it was freely moving in place.
    By John F
    From: Bolder, Co
    Aug 27, 2008

    It's fun to skip the bolts and place gear on this route. RPs to #0.75 Camalot.
    By chris kline
    From: Boulder, Co / Jervis Bay , Aus
    Jun 4, 2009

    Great fun route - The bulge goes easily, it's getting up and close to it that was the crux for me!
    By keith story
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 31, 2010

    Good beginner's route. Fun speed climbing for intermediates/advanced climbers. Do this route, whether it is a new adventure or as a way to get your blood flowing.

    Great, comfy area too!
    By Benten
    From: Denver
    Oct 9, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    It is a lesson in climbing technique! It starts off standard, goes into a mantel, a sidepull, then a place to jam a crack. Ends with a lesson in undercling technology, and there is always a sloper to get familiar with. Have fun.
    By Mike G-Status
    May 6, 2011

    There's a 200+ lb rock about 20-30 feet up on the left side near a bush that looks like it might just get pulled out if you were to unwittingly use it as a hold, as I started to do.... It's not too hard to miss, though. Other than that the rock is really solid. Fun climb!
    By Coco Bell
    May 30, 2012

    Awesome route, not the best if you are bringing a beginner out.... The crux is at the top which is amazingly tall for a top-rope!!
    By JJR
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 12, 2012

    Such a fun route! Definitely one of the better 8s I've done. Fun moves, good to put a beginner on top rope I would think (but really fun to lead). If you are leading it, it's hard to reach the 5th (?) bolt from the big ledge.... I'm 5'8", and I had to do a little move to reach the bolt. All in all, great route! Do it if you're in the area!
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 16, 2014

    On June 9th, Dale Haas and I replaced the old anchor with two 1/2" SS Powers bolts. We added SS quicklinks and SS rappel rings to the hangers. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
    By MountainSean Foege
    From: Indian Hills
    Jan 27, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    Hit it yesterday on a warm winter day. Great sun until around 3. Great grippy rock, every hold was solid. Great 5.8. Solid hardware, though I threw a piece in before the first bolt for extra pro, since it's a bit tall.
    By Andrew Locke
    From: Louisville, CO
    Mar 28, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Do this climb. It's awesome.
    By Mason Roberts
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 8, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Everything you read here is correct - I just wanted to add that a 60m rope works fine for a TR. There are rap rings and quick hooks at the top. Set your own gear for the TR. I'm sure this gets enough laps that the anchors would have to be replaced often otherwise.
    By James Cranston
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 2, 2017
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    So much fun! Large variety of rock shape and movement.
    By Richard Rossiter
    Jul 7, 2017

    IT IS WRONG TO USE OR EVEN MENTION THE NAME Jaycene’s Dance. Leitner and Alber went up and retro-bolted a route already climbed and named ANIMATION, then had the phenomenal lack of character to rename it. How low can you go?

    It is however appropriate to mention that the route was retro-bolted because the bolts are there, and I did not place them So please do not validate their transgression by listing Jaycene’s Dance as an AKA. THE ROUTE DOES NOT HAVE TWO NAMES any more than it has two first ascents. Thank you.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 17, 2017

    Great holds, bolting, and climbing. One of my favorites in the area.

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