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Animal Territory 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ryan Haeseley, Geoff Ris
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: geoffrey.ris on Apr 3, 2016

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After first lead.

Description 

Climb an easy section to a harder, beautiful dihedral to a large ledge. Upon reaching the ledge, it is clear that you are sharing this space with something wild. Whether you catch sight of these wild things (stalking your camp at night?), or merely evidence of them left behind, understand that you are a visitor in animal territory. Channel your beastly instinct to traverse the wide roof and hope for a tight belay if you slip here. Finish through the crux to the belay ledge and set anchors. Next pitch goes up a short and technical dihedral and around an easier roof to a flaring chimney. Embrace the juggy pockets and ledges, traverse under a protruding stone, then pull over and through the easy finish. Unleash a howl of victory to proclaim your dominance! Find a tree back about 10 feet from the cliff and left to set up the belay. Walk left and rappel from large hemlock on the way to Spider Rain, or walk right through thorny holly and briars and make a tricky rappel through a wide roof crack.

Location 

Right of Spider Rain, scamper onto a ledge before turning the corner.

Protection 

Normal rack. A 6 helps protect traverse at the top.


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By Corona
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Clean, dry climbing on great rock. A very good outing. We had no issue with two #4s - some would prefer a 3rd. Mind the sharp edges and the rope snagging roofs when placing gear. Like most routes here, it could be done in one pitch with double ropes to reduce drag. The bouldery crux is over a ledge - it's protectable, but use caution.
By paul.adams.3
From: Knoxville, TN
Oct 20, 2016

hopped on this route and it was amazing!. varied climbing from the crack down low to traversing under roofs to hero jug hauling at the top. would be a classic pitch anywhere. we left a rap station on top. it's also possible to build an anchor with a #1, #2, and .5ish near the station at the top

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