REI Community
Animal World
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aardvark T,TR 
Animal Instinct S 
Animal Magnetism S 
Animal Riots Activist S 
Animation S 
Automatic Choke T,TR 
Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 
Blockhead S 
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 
Closer To God S 
Cold Snap T 
Crack Corner T 
Cujo Tranquilizer S 
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Evolution Revolution S 
Familiar Strangers T 
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
Fifth Destiny, The S 
Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Geritol Generation T,TR 
Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
Hands of Destiny S 
Hope and Pray T,S 
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
Krakatoa T 
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 
Lazy Day S 
Lovely to See You T,S 
Melancholy Man S 
New Beginnings S 
Nice To Be Here S 
Old Dihedral T 
Piles of Trials S 
Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
Sundog S 
Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
Triple Play T 
Tuesday Afternoon S 
Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Animal Riots Activist 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ken Trout, Rick Leitner
Page Views: 8,478
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Feb 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (161)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Holly Yeary - Animal Riots Activist 5.12a

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A fantastic "Gym Style" climb, this is the third route from the left (west) on the west buttress of Animal World. It is somewhat camouflaged behind a pine tree on the approach. Perfect holds with thoughtfully placed clips lead up increasingly steeper and harder climbing to an incredible sloper move to surmount a roof. Don't let your guard down for the finish as the climbing switches gears into a 11a slab to the anchors!

    Protection 

    7-8 draws plus anchors.


    Photos of Animal Riots Activist Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: @ the crux!!
    @ the crux!!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nice Bo Can day and a fun climb.
    Nice Bo Can day and a fun climb.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Red line marks the route and black Xs mark bolts a...
    BETA PHOTO: Red line marks the route and black Xs mark bolts a...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bill leading Thru Activist!!
    Bill leading Thru Activist!!
    Rock Climbing Photo: It gets harder....
    It gets harder....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Heel hook beta?
    Heel hook beta?
    Rock Climbing Photo: Working higher and higher on some moderate 11 terr...
    Working higher and higher on some moderate 11 terr...
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the positive slopers of the crux and figuring o...
    On the positive slopers of the crux and figuring o...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Thank-god-jug rest before the sloper rail and crux...
    Thank-god-jug rest before the sloper rail and crux...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The lower section of the route with some fun and e...
    The lower section of the route with some fun and e...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mico Alejandro at the crux.
    BETA PHOTO: Mico Alejandro at the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mico Alejandro making the 4th clip just before the...
    BETA PHOTO: Mico Alejandro making the 4th clip just before the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the lunge to the crimp....
    Just before the lunge to the crimp....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Arielle Danielson - Animal Riots Activist
    Arielle Danielson - Animal Riots Activist
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the deadpoint sloper (very positive) that...
    Sticking the deadpoint sloper (very positive) that...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the far left side of Animal World.  Crac...
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Animal World. Crac...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dana cutting loose on the crux.
    Dana cutting loose on the crux.

    Comments on Animal Riots Activist Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2017
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 18, 2002
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Without commenting too much further on the grade, I can say that at 5'10" there is a dividing line. This climb [would] be significantly harder for short people than for tall people due to the [availability] to [toe-hook] the feet below the sloping rail. I'm 5'10" and have relatively long arms and found that I could reach everything I needed without a real struggle, but with not more than an inch to spare.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 26, 2002

    This has to be one of the hardest 12a sport climbs in Boulder Canyon
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 26, 2002
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    I did not think that this one was too hard, but maybe it plays to my strengths. It is a matter of just a few moves. Shoulder strength and arm length may be crux for some people, but for me it was more the footwork that gave me the body position I needed. 5.12a seems reasonable, I guess for a local grade on sport. I've been on harder 5.11s and easier 5.12s.
    By jonah
    May 29, 2003

    Whoa. The hardest 12a I've ever been on. What toe hook are you talking about? I'm only 5'8", but I would think I would've at least seen something for the feet. I ended up just campusing through the slopers to the finger bucket at the end. Nice to see some Boulder Canyon climbs with honest (sandbagged) grades.
    By Joe Collins
    May 29, 2003

    I agree with the comments above regarding this route. I got so flustered, falling repeatedly off the crux, that I tried to aid it by stepping in a sling, albeit unsuccessfully. I'm 6' tall with long arms so I don't think the problem is a reach issue. The crux seems to be sorting out your sequence of slaps along the slopey crimps at the lip of the bulge.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 29, 2003
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Oh sure, ask me a year later... (snicker)I honestly recall it not being that hard for 5.12a- maybe the same as Empire of the Fenceless (?). Anyway, the toe hooks I am talking about were like side-pulls for the toes down below and kept my body at the right angles to be somewhat secure with the available hands. No doubt, as this climb "wears in" over the years, it will get harder.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jun 19, 2003
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Difficult, one-move-wonder. Contrasted to Global Gorilla, it should earn a single star for the easy approach to the crux (5.9 or 5.10), single move crux perhaps two, a ledge rest before the last sequence, and a short route overall.

    Slopey move to a deep slot. Gotta stick the sloper.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 25, 2003

    I didn't find this route to be stout for 12a. In fact, Sun Dog - also 12a at Animal World - is significantly harder.
    By ac
    Oct 22, 2003

    Beta: Stop reading if you don't want it. Left foot on nubbin, right on a good edge to the right, hands on the chalked jug well beneath the roof. High reach with LEFT hand to the left side of the sloping roof. Right foot out left kickback style. Right hand to a small crimpy sidepull out right below the roof (hard to see). Grab it, adjust left hand to slopy crimp on roof. Walk feet over to the right ending with the right foot on good sloper way out right. Then go for the slanting jug above the roof with your right hand.
    By Erik L Ahrn_
    Oct 27, 2003
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    One hard move and that's pretty much it... Took me a while to figure out how to pull the crux.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 24, 2005

    Jug haul to V4 boulder problem. I found to best beta is high step left from the jug, left hand windmill to the low sloper/sidepull on the lip, right foot on good edge below jug, right hand backstep to postive part of the lip, match, left foot to jug, right foot flag, right hand gaston on rail then crimp it. Cut feet and swing right foot to low positive rail, shift your weight and fire to the good crimp. 5 moves. This route gave me a hard time the first time I was on it.
    By Charlie Fried
    From: New York, NY
    Jun 18, 2006
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    This route is definitely similar to a gym climb. The crux is very difficult for shorter people. While you're on the sloper, the rope can get in the way of your foot maneuvering.
    By Jason Anderson
    Oct 15, 2006
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    This felt significantly easier than 5.12s on nearby walls. I have recently had difficulty with Prince of Thieves 5.12a/b and Space Goats 5.11d. I want to rate this 11b, but to reduce conflict, I'll say 5.11c. I'm 5'6.5" +3.
    By brain damage
    May 30, 2010
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    This climb is great an fairly easy hike up to the crux then play on the sloper for a while right hand over to crimper. Then throw for a little crack. Then walk up the rest.
    By Eric Rak
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jul 27, 2010

    Kind of a cruise to the crux but nice movement. Coming off of an elbow injury maybe I'm feeling soft, but the crux move seemed 12a to me.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    May 27, 2011
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Probably soft, but I thought it was a ton of fun. The moves before the crux are big for me! My feet often cut going to the triangular jug, then some high steps and pinches get me to the crux, which felt a little more difficult than Days of Future Passed.
    By chris v.
    From: Chicago
    Dec 18, 2011

    This route is temperature dependent. Sent second go today, the middle of December. Comparing this to Empire of the Fenceless or Strange Science just across the canyon, I would say it sits in between. In 60+ degrees, it would be hard. 11d?
    By Cesar Valencia
    Mar 11, 2012
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I'm short, so I went from the slopers and basically jumped to the good rail out right. Once I stuck that, I swung my right foot over and crossed my left hand into the rail and mantled up to the slab section. I thought it was a fun route overall.
    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Dec 21, 2012
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I'm 8ft. tall and this route felt like 5.9b. But, my girlfriend is only 3.6 inches tall and she said it felt like 5.17a so we split the difference and came up with 5.12a. Oh, and this is a good route too if you like that sort of thing.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Aug 26, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Interesting reading the comments after climbing this recently. I'll chip in my .02:

    Toe cam - I have no idea where you would use a toe cam to make it easier, it seemed like the holds were all facing the wrong way for this tactic(???).

    Hard/easy... my first go felt really hard, but it was pretty hot and humid, which isn't a good combo for this (or any) route. After figuring it out, it was still not super easy.

    Somebody calls it 11c, and their tick comments say 'onsight with a rest' or something like that. Not sure what to say about that.

    Short versus tall, either should work ok. Short would be better for heel hooking. Tall can throw further, but it is more shouldery. I missed ac's hidden crimp, maybe that would help. Another person had a good comment about paying attention to moving your leg around the rope.

    My first go I didn't really enjoy it, but after I put it together, it was actually pretty fun. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area.
    By Gneiss Yeti
    From: Denver, Colorado
    Jun 5, 2014

    No comment on grade; however, foot beta is important on this one. I found that cutting my feet at the lip and, with momentum, throwing my right foot on the obvious, large foot hold out right made this go down fairly easy. Ignore those tiny ticked jibs.... Stick to the good feet.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Jul 30, 2014
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    The crux beta seemed pretty straightforward (hang slopers, throw right foot onto a good edge out right, reach with right hand to a sinker finger-bucket). Fun route.
    By Carl Schaefer
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 30, 2017

    Both anchor hangers are loose. I don't know how solid the bolts are, but rappel/lower carefully, and don't toprope off them.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About